Dayton Battery Charger/Starter Rectifier
Hi all, Last September I posted about having some trouble with my Dayton 3Z351M wheeled, upright battery charger/starter, 250/60/2 Amp. Working fine, then one day when using it, it started to smoke. I opened it up but could not find anything burned, or the source of the smoke to determine the problem. 2 Grandaughters suggested it was likely the rectifier. He was correct- I was just able to confirm that by finally seeing the smoke coming from the rectifier. (Thanks 2 Grand!). Should I be able to just replace the rectifier to solve the problem, or could there possibly be something that would cause the rectifier to go bad like this? Appreciate any thoughts if anyone knows. Thanks, Visser Without seeing a wiring diagram I can't state positively but yes, replacing the rectifier might be all that is necessary. I would replace it with a rectifier that has higher amperage and PRV ratings to be on the safe side. Thanks for the reply Furd. I tried to post some pics if was helpful, but couldn't get them to upload, (I've posted pics of the same type and size on the forum before and not had this problem, so I don't know why it wasn't working.). But anyway, thanks for the input. There are 2 heavy aluminum wires coming from the transformer, connecting directly at the rectifier at 2 separate round metal plates, (sorry don't know what to properly call them). The connections look good and clean, and everything inside is very clean. So nothing looks like it could cause a problem to the rectifier, but I'm not sure what would cause a rectifier to just go bad, or start smoking. I was wanting to include a picture because you can see the area that is smoking, (a round plastic piece that the metal plate is attached to looks like it is melting. The other looks fine.). The rectifier itself doesn't look like it should go bad for any reason. Anyone know if it's common for a rectifier to do this and just go bad, or if there's a common cause that results in it going bad or smoking like this? (I think I know that they can do this from just building up too much heat that they can't hold anymore and they fry.). Appreciate any thoughts. Thanks Well, it appears to me to be the rectifier- the round metal plate I described is in front of a plastic piece, which turns out to be a 12 point daisy wheel design diode. (There are 2 with 6 points. Part #8 in the attached diagram is the rectifier. The round diode on the left is the one that is smoking on mine.). There doesn't seem to be anything to these diodes- the back side of them have a short, small diameter bolt coming out of each spoke that touches the metal plate on the back of the rectifier. Don't know what could go bad about this, but I can get a replacement rectifier for $35 plus shipping, so I might as well replace it and see what happens. I was trying to find just that diode to replace but haven't found that at all. I'll post back with results. Visser 141-297-000 Century 87602 60/40/2/250 amp battery charger w/ volt meter This link shows the rectifier, (part #8). Yes, rectifiers can spontaneously fail. It appears that what you have is a pair of rectifier assemblies on a heat sink. Each assembly has several rectifier diodes of relatively low amperage capability so that the whole assembly can handle the total current. IF you can disassemble the rectifier assembly you could use an ohmmeter to determine which diode is shorted and then IF you can find a part number on the diode itself just replace that particular diode. I have a reference to some 40 ampere diodes that are available for about $3.50 each. If you can post the pictures to a free photo hosting site and the post the URLs here I can see better to advise you on replacement. Take lots of clear, well-lit pictures from several angles. Thanks for the reply, and helping me sort this out, Furd! What you mentioned makes sense, I can see one diode on one of the rectifier assemblies, that has presumably shorted where it touches the heat sink. The plastic that houses the diode is discolored from getting hot and melting right around that diode, and the heat sink looks like the diode arced where it touches the diode. I will find a sight I can post pics and link you to them. I appreciate you offering to help with any advice after viewing pics. I have some really good detailed ones that better illustrate what I just described. I also appreciate your input on replacing just the diode. If the assembly comes apart I could probably match up the diode and try just replacing it first before replacing the whole rectifier with heat sink assembly. I would probably have to replace the plastic daisy wheel that houses the 6 diodes also since it has been melted and discolored a little bit. Without taking it apart I'm not sure if the diodes could be removed individually, but after getting your input, sure seems worth trying. I'll take the assembly apart and see what turns out and post back. Thanks for the great help. Hi Furd. Here is a link with some pictures. I'd appreciate if you could take a look and let me know what you think. Pictures by 99LTC - Photobucket I removed the diode assembly from the heat sink. Obviously the whole piece that holds the diodes needs replacing. As mentioned I could replace the whole rectifier which includes the heat sink, but I would rather replace just the part that holds the diodes, (with new diodes obviously), unless it would be best to replace the whole unit for any reason. Specifically since there is some visible damage to the heat sink where the bad diode shorted, or burnt it, and without this happening, I see the front side of the circle shaped metal pieces are surface rusted. Dont know if those facts would warrant replacing the whole unit for those reasons alone, but please let me know what you think based on what you see. If it was feasible to replace just the bad diode assembly, where would I look for something like that? Another consideration for replacing the whole unit- is there potential for this to happen again with any of the other diodes due to age ans usage? Or cousl this just have been a random thing, and might I only have needed a diode if the assembly that held it wasn't damaged? Appreciate any thoughts! Thanks! Is there a way to test the diodes with a meter or anything to see if they are functioning? I just would like to know for future reference? Also if I was in a situation to just replace a bad diode, (if that's even possible), where would I look to find these, and how would I know what type/size/capacity or whatever technical details they are to try to find a replacement? Thanks for any input. I'm not trying to just be cheap, it be easy to just replace the whole unit, I just don't like being wasteful, or not being smart about using resources properly. (We're not gonna junk a good car, cause the battery is dead...). Yes, you may use a digital multimeter set to the ohms position. (Many multimeters have a diode test function and if yours does then follow the instructions for your meter) You will need to have at least one lead of the diode being tested separate from the assembly. Connect the meter probes across the diode and notice if you have continuity (low ohms reading) and then reverse the test leads and again note the ohms reading. One connection will read high ohms and the reverse will read low ohms if the diode is good. If both connections read low ohms then the diode is shorted and if both connections read high ohms then the diode is open. Either requires diode replacement. On each diode there should be a part number. Use this part number in a Google search. The really important things are the PRV (or PIV) rating and the amperage rating. There may also be things like which terminal is anode or cathode, especially with stud-mount or press fit diodes. Of course replacement of the entire rectifier board is always an option but I would probably do some testing with a voltmeter and opt for an entirely different rectifier approach. Unless you are well-versed in electronic repair just replacing the entire rectifier assembly is the easiest and probably least expensive (considering the time in building the new rectifier assembly) approach. Thanks again for the help and advice, Furd. I checked the diodes and all tested good except the one that I suspected was bad. All others checked out fine according to your description. I agree with you, makes sense to replace the whole rectifier assembly for the reasons you mention, but i do appreciate you answering my questions for my sake of knowing and learning. Thanks for taking the time to reply! On each diode there should be a part number. Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ne...#ixzz1vT6lisWH FYI- the reason I originally asked about identify the diodes, and I should have mentioned this- is there is nothing on them- no part numbers, names, or anything. Strange. So i thought this might be common or something like that, and someone might know that there were a certain type used with certain amperage chargers and replace them by size, or something like that. No worries, no need to know, I was just curious if they were common replacement items, and thought it odd there would be no markings on them anywhere. Thanks much. I'm going to replace the whole assembly and I'm sure the Dayton will be working great once again!
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