Hello - sorry about the title which should read wood filler vs spackle I am going to repair rotted areas which I will thoroghly clean out first. I let dry well. Question is, would I be better with an exterior wood filler like Elmers, an exterior spackle or Bondo? I don't think I want to go as far a epoxy although I read it is strong. Too much drying time and prep work. I'm old and not well so a 'quicker' but good fix is what I'd like. I think it is safe to say I'd be better off with wood filler than with spackle if I am going to go in 1/2 at a few spots and want adhesion and durability. I have used Bondo in the past with good results but the mixing is pesty. If there is a good new exterior wood filler that you can put on with a knife like peanut butter, then sand, prime and paint I would like the name, please. I read about Elmers but have not used it. Thank you I think one important fact has been omitted. What KIND of rotted areas? Trim? Window sills? Door frames? I would use different methods and materials for different things. Anything structural would be replaced of course. Has the reason WHY these items rotted been addressed? As Vic noted - what exactly are you wanting to repair? Exterior spackling is only for dressing up minor defects in the substrate, it should not be used for any repairs. I rarely make repairs since replacement is the preferred way to go although I have used Durham's rock hard putty on occasion. It is a bear to sand so it pays to apply it neatly! For any repair to last you must get back to solid wood [remove all the rot] The areas to be fixed are only cosmetic like where two pieces of trim butt and are cracked. Also, some rotted wood along a piece of siding here and there. I have long since sold my table saw etc and am not too used to patch work. I watched some videos and they seem to say that these non structural smaller type repairs can be fixed with a thorough cleaning and wood filler. it looks like Elmers in a quart size. Goes on like peanut butter and seems to fill fairly deep holes. Bear in mind, please, I agree replacement is the way to go but I am old and not well like years ago so I am trying to keep the blemishes looking ok -just staying out of the woods. I wish I could do what I used to, believe me. Question is, if you do use filler, will a product like brand x, exterior wood filler be acceptable and do you have a recommendation as to the name of such a filler? Thank you If replacement is all you suggest that is ok I don't have enough knowledge about the various wood 'fillers' meant for repairing damaged wood to recommend any of them. I've only repaired minor rot more as a favor to the customer than as a good fix. If they wanted it fixed right, I'd point them toward a decent carpenter Where ever you have 2 pieces of wood joined together - that crack is best filled with caulking. Some of the carpenters here have used a bit of the different products available for repairing rotted wood - hopefully one of them will post a reply I wish I could do what I used to, believe me Me too actually I can still do what I used to - it just takes me a whole heap longer Yes it would be nice if some guys who used fillers would post here. We'll see. I know what you man about expansion and believe me if I were getting paid, I would replace wood so there would be no call back. I like your comment about 'it just takes longer'. What I have used in the past is Minwax wood hardner followed by a waterproof type Bondo, (all body filler is not waterproof). Minwax also sells a filler but it goes on like body filler and smells like it but I can't say for sure if it's the same. Originally Posted by mgmine What I have used in the past is Minwax wood hardner followed by a waterproof type Bondo, (all body filler is not waterproof). Minwax also sells a filler but it goes on like body filler and smells like it but I can't say for sure if it's the same. I'll be going out to a Home Depot and will check out the products you mention. I would never have thought of Minwax so I'll keep an eye out for it. Thank you
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Hello, We're getting ready to purchase laminate and about the only thing we've been convinced on is 1) color grain (cuz we have to live with it) and 2) attached underlayment. Now we're shopping. Sam's club has a great deal on the Lock'n Seal, at about $1.50/ sq foot of 9mm, w/ underlayment attached. But is their Lock'n Seal (by Uniboard surfaces), which is warranteed for 25 years a good product that we'll be happy with? Pergo and Armstrong are the 2 big names sold at the local Lowe's store - should we stick w/ the namebrands? And FloorOne.com has an almost unbeatable deal on Vectra Apex. choose a laminate floor????????? Is there a 'consumer reports' for laminate flooring?? thanks in advance, patti We bought the Sams brand w/o additional padding a couple years ago and LOVE it!.. Also bought MoHawk clearence at Lowes w/padded backing for my office and it is also very nice.. I like the fact that it is textured where as Sams brand is smooth. When it came time to due our entryway and dining room we decided to go with the Sams w/padding mainly due to the fact that matched the existing flooring purchased at Sams. Hope that helps This summer I purchased 40 boxes of the laminat flooring from Sam's Club. We were removing the carpet from the first floor and replaced it with the Lock'n Seal product. We are very happy with the way it turned out. The only problem was that I had to make a lot of trickie cuts around the door ways. In doing the cuts I used my table saw which allowed me to make a lot of cuts that I couldnt get with my miter saw. My wife liked the way the first floor turned out she had me pull up the carpet on the second floor and put down the same flooring that we used on the first floor. Good luck with your project. choose the sams club...but before you lay it cut off the bottom of the door jambs..that way the floor runs under the jabs leaving a clean look..lay a piece of the flooring and use a saw laying on top to make sure the clearance you cut is not to much I don't have anything to compair it to as this was my first experience with laminate flooring, but I HIGHLY recommend Lock n' Seal. And you can't get anything any cheaper at this quality. I just installed about 400sqft of Lock n' Seal Premium Sonoma Cherry last week and it looks great. Only problem I've had is finding matching moldings, but on a Google search I found Floorhouse.com and they have every color and transition type (way more than the Sams website) and they're the same price. The install couldn't be easier. No padding to lay down. No glue. They cut great (no splintering). I couldn't be happier with it. I have an 80lb. lab that is doing his best to scratch them and dirty them any way possible and it doesn't even phase it. I suggest Lock n' Seal. But as I said before, I don't have anything to compair it to. Good luck with whatever you choose.
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The weed eater starts fine in choke - it takes a bit to warm up, but then it is fine. I put the choke to half throttle and it runs fine. If I squeeze the trigger, ever so slightly, it dies. I can start it back up again and after about 15 min of running in half throttle, I can squeeze the trigger a bit without it dying. If at anytime I put the choke to full throttle and squeeze the trigger, even a little bit - it dies ( no matter how long it has warmed up ) The weed eater is a little over a year old and was a gift ( no receipt ) It was stored flat with an empty tank. I mixed the oil that came with the unit with the gas per it's instructions. Any suggestions? I usualy start my ryobi with full choke, let it warm up a bit (about 3 or 5 min), then move it to 1/2 choke, untill I can full throttle it, then take the choke off. and it runs great, is almost 2 yrs old now. If you leave it at full choke it wont run when you give it gas. No air flow, just gas, runs to rich, or lean...I think its rich. Is the gas good? does it smell sickly sweet or like gas? is the mixture correct? Spark plug clean? Always seems like you have to learn the trick to get a 2-cycle lawn tool to run good. Brian I might not have explained myself correctly. I followed the instructions: Pump gas bulb 5 - 7 times while choke is in 'A' position. Squeeze trigger and pull starter max three times. Move choke to 'B' position, squeeze trigger and pull starter max 5 - 7, repeat process until it starts. Once system is warm, move Choke to 'C' position and begin to work. When system is in 'B' position after it is warm (15 min) I can barely squeeze the trigger. If I move the lever to the 'C' position, the slightest touch to the trigger kills the engine. Thanks for all of your help so far!!! Hello mmarasc First we need to clear up the confusion over the terms used. The throttle controls the engines speed. The choke closes off the air flow into the carb to richen the fuel mixture to help start a cold engine. The problem condition your discribing is classic of a carb that is fuel starved. That said, when the lever is in the A position, the choke is fully closed. When you move the lever to slightly open the closed choke {Position B} it allows more air in which then leans out the fuel mixture. Position C is the full run position, no choke on. Normal operation position. When you squeeze the throttle lever, in an attempt to speedup the engine while in position C then engines dies do to fuel starvation. {Lack of fuel.} However, in position B there is less air {Richer Fuel Mix} then in position C and the engine runs but not well. You weed eater needs it's high speed circuit fuel system within the carb cleaned out. What is known as a carb cleanout and rebuilt with a new card kit. All gas engine powered equippment of this type use diaphram carbs. These carbs have very tiny parts and require some degree of skills, tools and techniques to accomplish the task. They are not as easy to cleanout and rebuild as float bowl carbs used on most lawn mowers. Therefore, if you attempt this task, as a do it yourself project, it can be done but beware it takes patients and attention to details. The archives within this forum have further details and information on this subject topic. Good Luck, Tom_Bartco Accurate Power Equipment Company. Small Engine Service and Repair Technician. Personal Quote: If it ain't broke, don't fix it until it is broken! Bare in mind my company no longer services nor repairs lawn and garden powered equipment. Rest assured and fully confident, the help I offer you is based upon my prior years in this industry, with this type of equipment and is specific and accurate...
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Hi all, I've been browsing this site with great interest the last couple weeks trying to diagnose my own problem, but I haven't seen any issues with vent dampers like mine posted here. I've been having problems with the boiler in my hot-water heating system, where a zone calls for heat (there are 3 zones with Honeywell V8043 zone valves) but the boiler never kicks on. This is generally an intermittent problem, where it might happen a couple times in a single day, or not once for a couple weeks. I had a serviceman out to look at it who concluded it was the vent damper not making the switch correctly on every cycle around, so on those times where it doesn't, the boiler just sits there indefinitely until I sense it getting pretty cold in the house and I go and power cycle the boiler (it's wired up to switch on the wall). The boiler is a Bryant BW2. The vent damper is an Effikal RVGP-KSF 6-inch. I was told the cost to replace this vent damper would be about $800, and since it looks like a part that would cost maybe $50 or $100, I've been hesitant to go ahead with the work, especially when I can get it running again by turning it off and on. Since the time the serviceman was out, I didn't have a single outage once for the next 3 weeks, but I did notice that one of the zones was always cold. Using these forums and my own studying of the boiler, I was able to determine that one of the zone valves was dead, and I replaced it successfully and now the whole house heats up properly. This made me somewhat skeptical that the serviceman gave me the correct diagnosis. Now just recently again the boiler has been shutting down occasionally (no, it's not because of the zone valve I replaced), and last night it did three times in a row, so I figure I better get this solved once and for all. Since I understand what most of the components do now, I watched the stat call for heat, the zone valve open, and the vent damper open as well, but still the boiler did not kick on. To test the vent damper theory, I gently pushed on the shaft of the vent damper (it's more like a blade) in both directions and when I pushed it in the direction it normally rotates, the ignitor immediately started and the boiler started to heat. I did not force the shaft of the damper to turn at all (I read the warnings), it required only the slightest pressure to trigger the ignitor. I tested this again the next couple times it had shut down and always got it to start. So it does certainly seem like the vent damper switch is not triggering when the damper opens, and maybe its finally about to give up the ghost. I set it to the hold open position while I figure out what to do now. Are there any adjustments I can make to the damper mechanism to ensure the switch is made? I don't see anything visible (I took the cover off), but I wasn't going to disassemble anything to get a better look. Or do I have to bite the bullet and have it replaced? I got a quote from another place and they said $1200, although they said normally a part like that would cost the customer maybe $250 max. So at least I feel better the first serviceman wasn't gouging me for my ignorance. (although his company isn't a Bryant dealer ... maybe I should get it checked by a Bryant dealer?) Thanks for any help you can offer, and if there are any other details that would help let me know. --Brett I don't remember the cost of those dampers my catalogs only list the Honeywell but the $250 does not sound unreasonable. The effikal dampers are notorious for the end switches failing. The plastic cam pushes against the microswitch as the damper opens. It's the way that it tells the boiler that it has opened and that it's ok to light. We had a bad run over the last 2 years with the dampers, replacing nearly 1 in 3 of new installs. Call some supply houses and give them the model # on the damper to get a price. It's an easy swap out. remove, unplug/replace replug. That damper is not specific to your boiler. Peerless,Dunkirk and about a dozen other manufacturers use Effikal dampers, so they are a common replacement part. In the meantime, look for a small slide switch on the control head marked manual. Flip this switch while the boiler is on it will not close when it shuts down. You'll have some small off-cycle heat losses, but no more no-heat problems. Grady, $250 was supposed to be the cost for a typical damper. *My* damper was quoted to run $800-$1200! A little hard to swallow. HVACGuy, I've already set it to hold-open, so that problem is solved. Good to know that the damper should be available somewhere to buy. I had been told that I would have to go through a dealer to get it, and hence the price was jacked way up. I'll take another shot at locating one. Would this damper be an OK replacement? It looks exactly the same, and the specs appear to be the same as my Effikal. http://www.fieldcontrols.com/gvd.php Thanks guys! I honestly don't know if the Field or Honeywell will replace yours or not. I did notice the Field had a universal cable sold separately. The Honeywell D896A1277 comes with the cable plug which fits Honeywell's S86, S8600, S8610, S8620, and Penn-Baso G60 G66 systems. There is a replacement actuator available for the Honeywell, don't know about the Field. Sorry I missed the part where you already found the manual switch. The damper looks like a good fit. My only concern is the compatibility of the plug on the harness. Originally Posted by HVACGuy The effikal dampers are notorious for the end switches failing. The plastic cam pushes against the microswitch as the damper opens. It's the way that it tells the boiler that it has opened and that it's ok to light. We had a bad run over the last 2 years with the dampers, replacing nearly 1 in 3 of new installs. Call some supply houses and give them the model # on the damper to get a price. It's an easy swap out. remove, unplug/replace replug. That damper is not specific to your boiler. Peerless,Dunkirk and about a dozen other manufacturers use Effikal dampers, so they are a common replacement part. In the meantime, look for a small slide switch on the control head marked manual. Flip this switch while the boiler is on it will not close when it shuts down. You'll have some small off-cycle heat losses, but no more no-heat problems. I found the manual switch, this is great. Can I just leave it like this or do I have to replace it? plug and play from fieldcontrols. http://www.fieldcontrols.com/gvd.php You can leave the damper open if you wish but it will cost you in energy consumption. A functioning damper probably increases efficiency by about 5%. Originally Posted by Grady You can leave the damper open if you wish but it will cost you in energy consumption. A functioning damper probably increases efficiency by about 5%. Thank you for the reply, you have eased our minds. :0) Originally Posted by Grady I honestly don't know if the Field or Honeywell will replace yours or not. I did notice the Field had a universal cable sold separately. The Honeywell D896A1277 comes with the cable plug which fits Honeywell's S86, S8600, S8610, S8620, and Penn-Baso G60 G66 systems. There is a replacement actuator available for the Honeywell, don't know about the Field. I believe I have the D896A1277. The stamp below is illegible betwee A and 77. My problem is similar in that the actuator has a call for heat, opens, but the ignitor does not fire. Service guy pulled off cover and suddenly every thing works fine. We cannot reproduce. He is hesitant to make diagnosis without more info. Since then I've had a few outages. A giggle of the cable on the actuator side would trigger the ignitor. Now I have a piece of cardboard wedge to put pressure on the cable/socket so that it is forced down. Looks like it's working. Do you have a link for the replacement to D896A1277? Assuming it is a true replacement the cable should be compatible? I don't know if these guys would have it or not but it's worth a shot: www.patriot-supply.com If you have not replaced the Honeywell damper, the next time the unit will not fire, try moving the two wires on the motor. You will have to put the manunal switch back to the service position, to try this. They come lose. That will not cure the problem, as you can not field repair the lose connection. But it will tell you it is the control. If you have replaced that damper and still have the old D986a1277, let me know. I could not find the right thread for this problem, but I suspect somewhere here knows the answer. I have a Honeywell vent damper that will not stay closed while the furnace is NOT calling for heat. When the furnace shuts down, the damper motor will start, and the damper will close, and then it will cycle open once it reaches the close point. It will repeatedly do this until the furnace calls for heat and then it stays open. I have cleaned out the pipe and made sure there were no obstructions. I have manually left it in the open position, since I was concerned that the motor will fry while I am trying to figure out the problem. Any advice on repair would be helpful. It is a Burnham furnace with a Hoenywell vent damper. Thanks As I recall, there are two switches in this damper. One which senses open the other closed. There could also be a problem with the device (ignition module?) which controls the damper. Most of these dampers must be replaced from the manufacturers stock. Depending on the manufacturer the wiring may be different than the standard sale and would require re-wiring. The one's from the manufacturer is always plug and play. Hi, I have a similar issue like this post. I have a Budurus boiler that is using a Honeywell Aquastat Relay L8148E with a Effikal Vent Damper RVGP-PC-7BKF. The problem I am having is the wiring harness between the Honeywell and the vent damper. The boiler will call for heat and the damper will open, but the honeywell relay will not kick in. I have also tried the manual override on the vent damper and this still did not kick in the boiler. I followed the wiring harness down to the honeywell relay and took the cover off the unit. It looks like a 4-plug receptacle. I move the harness back and forth and the boiler clicked and took off. At the time I was not sure if it is a bad connection or bad harness. I put the vent damper back in its automatic state. Now the problem is intermittent. The harness seems to be the problem and I am trying to locate a new one, but am not having much luck. As the harness goes into the honeywell unit, it makes more then a 90° bend in the cable. I think the small wires they use in this cable probably has a break in it. I have tried to rebend it sharper or unbend (flatter) to keep it going. The sharper I bend it the better it works, but this still is not a 100% fix. Don't like cold showers in the morning. Any suggestions. There is enough cable that I could cut off about 6 and try to re-do the plug, but I don't think that I would get lucky and get the old wire sockets out of the plug to re-use. Its hard to tell if the problem is in the cable assembly or the control. Could be either. I don't know if the cable assembly is available separately or not. My money is on a bad solder connection in the 8148... I bet that one of the pins where the connector is soldered to the board has a cracked solder connection. Originally Posted by NJ Trooper My money is on a bad solder connection in the 8148... I bet that one of the pins where the connector is soldered to the board has a cracked solder connection. No way no how am I gonna take that bet. Seen too many. Darn... I thought I could re-stock my beer fridge!
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Sorry posted this in the wrong board first time. Last night we had a guy come into our home from NES. He spoke about these great Triple Pain windows that they ashure me in writing will save me 50% on my heating bill. Now the windows do sound nice, and I know from reading in This Old house and watching Michael Holligan that they do work like he says. However to replace 9 windows and a sliding glass door in my house it was going to cost $13,000.00. I also didn't like the fact that he was directing his attention to my wife (even though she handles the money). The look on her face was that she didnt' want to do it, but was being presured into saying yes. I spoke up and basically told the guy NO. I figured if they were a good deal and we could afford it, we could call the company and order them. The issue I have is he kept inforcing the fact that he could save us 50% on our heating bill, and how much the heat costs would go up if we didn't do this. That was his main sticking point. He also kept speaking bad about Anderson windows and all the other window companies out there that you could pick up at Home Depot or a building supply company Now I ask you. Are these window really that much better? Doesn't every company that sells windows make at least a double pain window with some sort of gas in between the pains? Typical high pressure sales BS.....9 decent windows and a replacement slider ought to run in the $4000 or less range.....sorta depends on the window size, but a typical 36x54 with LowE glass and argon will run in the $200 range....you can get a decent slider for $700-800, so the actually material costs are in the $2500 range, add 1G for labor to install and some profit on the job and you're in the 4 g range.... Don't know about tripple on the door, but to add it to about any vinyl window is $25 or so.... and I'd only do it if you live in a cold enough climate to justify the return....which YOU may..... Go to Blockbuster Video Store....rent Tinmen with Danny Devito as an aluminum siding saleman.......it's a hoot and OUGHT to be required viewing before you allow ANY home improvement salesman into your house. Thanks for the help. I knew there was something fishy about this guy. He asked how much we could afford to spend monthly to finance them. He gave us three options that started at $75.00. I was thinking more like 40 or $50.00. You knock $10,000.00 off the price of the windows and maybe I could afford them. Can you buy Triple pane or Double pane windows at Home Depot or a building Supply yard? labor won't be a problem. My father in law is a construction worker. My wife just entertaned this man to get free movie tickets. I live in the Buffalo New York area and it does get quit cold up here. First off is there really a gas called Kripton? Also is it any better than argon? I just felt like he was pulling my wife's leg when he said Kripton. Reminded me of Superman. Yep....there really is a krypton gas....atomic number 36 on the periodic table if I remember my high school chemistry right. One of the noble gases that are inert and won't combine with other elements......Now whether it's one bit better than argon, also one of the 6, as to insulative properties, I doubt it. Even argon is a questionable from what I read, but most companies throw it in with the LowE glass ( which IS good stuff ), so I guess it can't hurt. Probably a sales gimmick more than anything.....and now they're using superman gas, huh?......heck....only 4 more to go thru ....guess they'll have to start making up names after that....ahahahahaha Yes, you can get double and tripple pane glass anywhere replacments are sold.....in fact, you'd have a HARD time finding single pane anymore unless you're down in the ultra cheapo windows, like for unheated shed or basements.......and in your degree day area, tripple might be a good investment no more than it adds to the window.....I just don't push it here due the payback time. Installing isn't hard, but like anything, there are a few tricks.....read back thru some of the posts and pick up some tips....and have your FIL post questions if you has specific ones. Did you get the movie tickets that night ? If not, don't hold your breath waiting on 'em That's old siding salesguy trick #23....promise them a freebie to get in the door and then say you just ran out at the last house.....we'll send it to you..... Right.....and cows will fly. The bunch I used to install for gave away a cheap coffee maker......only I was always taking the dadgum $5 thing with me on the install.....I doubt they EVER gave one to someone that didn't buy. No on the movie tickets. We got a flyer to fill out. I told my wife to fill it out, but don't hold her breath. We didn't buy so we won't get the tickets. I told her. We had friends who were invited down to Florida for a weekend vacation and to look at time shares. All expenses paid. Well, when they didn't buy they were forced to pay for the trip themselves. Just fyi.. If you plan on shopping for your own windows, look for the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC). Most good quality windows will have their windows tested and rated. For different parts of the country there are different window types specific to the heating/cooling climates. Be sure that you buy ( and get! ) the proper window for your zone. NFRC' site address is www.nfrc.org NFRC label provides the information needed to make an informed decision on windows by rating the performance of the window, without having heavy sales tactics. Find the U-factor and SHGC for your area shop with this in mind. Do pay attention to the frame type...metal frames transfer heat, and on a low e window in the south the U-value will go from a good .35 to a not very good .60 Happy shopping. The demo guy also mentioned that his company had passed some sort of Manhattan testing. They claim it is a test whereby the apply 50 lbs of pressure to try to lift up the window for 3 minutes. They also claim (highly unlikely) that their windows are the only ones to pass. Has anyone else ever heard of this test? I watch many home improvement shows and my father-in-law is a general contractor and no one I talked to or listened to has ever mentioned it.
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Looking to go out and buy/rent a couple of those anti-mold foggers that are stainless steell and look like Alladdin's lamp and use in my crawlspace which flooded recently. Any comments or experiences using these? Gort a brother in Ohio who swears by them after using it to clear a basement out on a repo home he bought/invested in recently. I.m in the mold business and we stopped using the foggers years ago. The reason why is they don't put enough chemical on to the area fast enough. We have been using airless sprayers for spraying chemicals. Id get an airless sprayer and take care of it right the first time. I would tend to agree with airman. If it available to the public at a big box store, it is probably watered down. If it says 'made in China', forget it, you have not idea what is in it. Would like to buy a fogger for myself if i can find one of reasonable value. Some I've seen via google doesn't look any more complicated than the foggers you buy for halloween parties. What are airless foggers? Where can I order/buy one? Airless sprayers not foggers. K....what exactly is an airless sprayer? Where could I purchase one, at the big box or online? If online got a website or particular type recommended on a reasonable budget I could find on google or something? An airless sprayer is actually a pump. It sucks paint out of the container [usually a 5 gallon bucket] and pumps it thru a high pressure line to a gun. The gun can hold an assortment of tips which along with the pressure regulator can further dial in the size of the spray fan and the amount of material released. An airless is mainly used for spray painting but it can also be used to spray chemicals and with the bigger units, can sometimes be used to spray certain textures. The cost of an airless is directly related to it's quality and output. You can buy a small diy type airless for a few hundred dollars or less [these usually have a diaphram pump which isn't as reliable as a piston pump] or in excess of 5k for a heavy duty commercial pump. I'd don't know if the airless's for sale at the big box stores are worth their price. I've always bought airless and airless supplys at the local paint store. I've only owned piston pumps and for commercial painting any pump that puts out less than 1/2 gallon per minute is too small for my needs. A smaller pump should spray chemicals fine but may or may not be suitable for your painting needs - if any. You can rent an airless at most any tool rental store and at some paint stores. So essentially it's a paint spray gun? So I could theoretically use a air compressor, hoses, etc. and a paint sprayer configuration and get the job done myself? What if I just used a standard 101 pump sprayer with the mildew/mold stuff and just sprayed the crap out of everything vice all this trouble? Does it have to be so complicated? It is not complicated. A paint spray gun is not an airless sprayer. It does not have enough volume. A pump up sprayer will be a lot better than a spray gun. What kind of chemicals do you plan to use?
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the tank on my toilet is always sweating like crazy. any ideas why and how can i fix it??? it sweats so much it's causing little puddles on my brand new floor that i just installed. But it never did this before it's been since i gutted my bathroom out and refinished it????????? Steven A., If we are talking about toilet tank sweating then here are 4 options. 1. You could install insulating foam products to isolate the water from the tank sides. Home Depot carries it for a reasonable price. I think they are about $7-$10. You completely empty the water from the tank, then use a hairdryer to ensure that the sides are absolutely dry. Cut the foam and apply adhesive. Let it sit for 6 - 8 hours and it will be ready to be refilled and useable. This usually works but is not a guarantee. 2. The second oiption is to install a mixer valver which uses both hot and cold water to mix - you can adjust the temp as you want until it stops the condensation issue. Depending on how far away the hot water heater is, it may take quite awhile for the hot water to get there so in some cases, just running a hot water line is sufficient. Works well but you may have to hire a plumber. 3. Lastly and more expensive is to replace the guts of the toilet and replace with a pressure assisted unit, like Flushmate - 1 gallon per flush. This option is a water saver and works very well - no tank sweating at all. http://www.flushmate.com/DocumentLib...ments.asp?id=3 4. Total toilet replacement - Pressure Assisted Toilet - should you need to replace your old toilet. Might cost $260 on up but well worth it. This toilet has a pressure tank in it inside the water tank. Guaranteed to do the job and you get a great new toilet besides. http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?F...isted%20toilet Hope this helps! Older style toilets used 13 Liters of water while low consumption toilets use only 6 Liters of water. Most low consumption toilets regulate the amount of water with a metering system that only allows 6 liters of water to flush even though there may be as much as 13 liters of water in the tank. The result of this is that when the toilet fills the new water mixes with water that has been in the tank for some time and has already come up to room temperature. The temperature of the mixed water is considerably higher than the new water's temp. Higher water temp means less sweating. Low flow toilets sweat less than 13 liter toilets. I have never seen a low-flow-insulated toilet sweat. Originally Posted by Steven A. the tank on my toilet is always sweating like crazy. any ideas why and how can i fix it??? it sweats so much it's causing little puddles on my brand new floor that i just installed. But it never did this before it's been since i gutted my bathroom out and refinished it????????? Steven you may have to drill a vent hole in the cover you can get this done at a glass shop or try it yourself by using a macenory bit and make sure you oil ti the bit to keep it cool don't apply to much pressure and do it from the outside of the cover in. pluse you may want to try an insulating kit this applies to the inside of the flush box you have to strip it out completly and clean if good as to get the kit to stick well. hope this helps. : Steven, Please do not attempt to drill a hole in your tank lid. This will serve no useful purpose and is potentialy dangerous as it could break. If you wish to see if this might work, just take the tank lid off for a day or so. The toilet sweats for the same reason a glass of ice water sweats. The temperature inside the tank is colder than it is outside it or vise-versa. You may have a bathroom that is too warm or too much humidity or water that is extreamly cold. These all can cause the toilet to sweat. If you humidify your home in the winter and the heat or humidity gets too high you end up with condensation on your windows. You have the same thing happening in your bathroom. I have never used a tank insulating kit however it may solve your problem. The sweating has nothing to do with the size of the tank. When you remodeled your bathroom, you may have altered the temp controling or air flow. These will also contribute to your problem. Tile is cooler than carpet or vinyl and this may have contributed. There are many various reasons the problem may have started when it wasn't there previously. Good luck with your project. The toilet sweating is a sure sign of excess moisture in the air. This moisture may annoy you where remarkable on the toilet, but know this also condenses in other places you don't notice or can't see, and can damage your house. It settles on cold water pipes just as well as a toilet tank, and wicks out or drips elsewhere. This little bit of wetness in the walls promotes mildew and starts the whole house decay ecosystem rolling. If the air outside your home is cooler than inside, then cracking a window will cost a little in heating but it also causes humidity to migrate out. A slightly more energy-efficient solution (and the only one in hot, humid weather) is to run a dehumidifier. Moisture (or dryness) in the air disperses rapidly, so even a dehumidifier in some out-of-the-way corner will help the entire house. I assume you have a bathroom fan for showering, or could leave the door open. A nice way to switch the bathroom fan is with a humidistat that mounts in place of an on/off switch. It looks like a thermostat, but automatically clicks the fan on when humidity reaches the level you've dialed, usually the moment the mirror starts to fog up. It clicks off after the humidity level returns to normal. Prices for these switches are all over. I get them for $20 but have seen them sold for nearly $200. I like to put these humidistats into bathrooms because I suspect few people care to manually switch a fan on and off - I don't. If you go with the tank insulation, remember it some years from now when the toilet fill starts to run. Almost inevitably the foam peels off and flops against the mechanisms. I've seen mention of buying insulated tanks, but have never seen any store selling such. I have used the rigid foam panels, and if they are glued in perfectly they do work. Recently I heard about a spray-in insulation system that sounds like it would be the perfect solution. It sounds a little like the spray in stuff you use to seal the pan on an evaporative cooler. It would require taking the tank off and drying and cleaning it, same as the glue in panels, but you would not have to worry about gaps. Has anyone found such a product and if so where to get it? I need to do a toilet on a rental right now, so will be doing this in the next week or so. Problem we have here is water comes in at about 35-40 degrees and with showers and furnace, the bathroom can be 80 degrees or more with 100% humidity, or close to it. Guaranteed sweaty toilet. Any hints as to where to get the spray-in insulation coating? Larry
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Actually, the other night, I stayed up all night long and watched plumbing product infomercials, and then decided to cut my own jugular with a Stanley utility knife... I sprayed some Leakender 2000 on my neck and it saved my life until I could get to the emergency room... THANK YOU LEAKENDER 2000... no c.o.d.s Please! Yeah, I've seen that stuff advertised, too. The guarantee probably means that if it doesn't work, they'll send you another one just like it. Sort of like my lifetime warranty tank water heater that I paid through the nose for, which I've had to replace twice in seven years. (I'm on my third one, but hey, the replacement water heaters were free. Just didn't take into account my labor to remove and re-install the new ones, or the 80-mile round-trip to the nearest Lowe's). I think that I'm going to start a psychic hotline here. Anybody want to know their future? Send money. I'll even speak phony Jamaican. LOL All of this stuff on TV is unbelievable. Mike Ron, Ragnar, Mike -- what the hell you guys doing watching TV at 3AM??? Don't you know you're s'posed to be in here answering posts?? (RLMAO!!) Mike You can go to your local auto parts store and try some a lot cheaper. It appears to be nothing but auto body undercoating to me. I'm not sure why I'm answering this reply to a nine year old thread... I just wanted to say that the weather is clearing here today and I might be able to go out fishing in my boat that I've replaced the bottom with a screen door and coated it with ____________... HAHAHA. The best part about that scene is the guy is sitting with his legs as wide as they can go so his feet don't through the bottom. That's the 3rd guy they used for that commercial - the other 2 drowned! It took probably 50 cans of that stuff to waterproof that screen door. Yeah, and only Larry Craig has a wider stance when sitting down.....oops, that's political, isn't it? Sorry. Originally Posted by chandler It took probably 50 cans of that stuff to waterproof that screen door. …. Good pick up! They never did say how much you have to use – did they? chandler you have a bright future in marketing and sales should you ever so choose. (OK – I’ll shut up! It’s Sunday and the beer is warm, but I drank it anyway!) Originally Posted by zoesdad That's the 3rd guy they used for that commercial - the other 2 drowned! That's a good one!! Does the company selling the thick black snake oil in a can even plan to be around long enough to have to make good on their guarantee? The carpet in my living rm has cheap padding, I argued with them that I wanted better but when they offered me a double lifetime written warranty - I let them install it I should have known better, they went out of business 6 months later. Originally Posted by marksr That's a good one!! Does the company selling the thick black snake oil in a can even plan to be around long enough to have to make good on their guarantee? The carpet in my living rm has cheap padding, I argued with them that I wanted better but when they offered me a double lifetime written warranty - I let them install it I should have known better, they went out of business 6 months later. Good point. That's something I don't even think about. But I know you really should. What a great scam. Get your money and then go out of business - like that Solyndra disgrace! key00, I saw your reply to this thread early this morning (can't remember whether I was just going to bed or just leaving for work, but either way I didn't have time then to reply.) But since then, I see that a lot of others have been having fun with you! First off, welcome to the forums!! (This is only your second post, so a Welcome is probably still in order.) Second, don't let any of the current replys scare you off. We'll gladly discuss anything relevent. But WHY did you dig up a 9 year old thread?? My post on 12-06-02 was addressed to 3 guys who are no longer with us, and who haven't been in here for YEARS!!! If I'm correct, NONE of the current responders were around when this thread was originally started. Sorry, but when I saw this in my inbox, I KNEW you were in for some good natured ribbing, and you got it. (If I would have had time earlier, I would have been the one to start it!!) Hang around a while, and just put up with us!! Everybody in here does their level best to give good answers and good advise. But given a chance to poke a little fun at somebody and enjoy some good-natured humor, you better believe that we will!! lefty, thanks for pointing out that we are just funnin' with key00... it really didn't occur to me the a new poster might be put off by it. key00, welcome... stick around and don't let the curmudgeons grind ya down! Originally Posted by NJ Trooper key00, welcome... stick around and don't let the curmudgeons grind ya down! Vic hasn't posted, yet Well gang, key00 will either join us, or we scared him off. (Let's hope it's the former, not the latter.) Vic, are you OK -- haven't heard from you yet!! I'm here....I've just become too mature and sensible to participate in these kinds of discussions. OK...so a monkey, a parrot, and a zebra walk into a bar...... Vic, I've heard you [and me too] called a lot of things but .................. I know, right? What did I do to deserve all this abuse? lol Is there a minimum age for curmudgeons? I'm probably one of the youngest ones here, if there is. Vic, why are you trying to bring an age thing into this?? You know full well that there's no discrimination around here. Us old ones get picked on just as bad as you young ones do every time the opportunity presents itself!! The thing is, we all seem to keep coming back for the abuse!! It's my fault. I was just trying to have more company, and Vic hadn't chimed in yet. Getting older ain't for sissies. Getting older ain't for sissies You got that right!!!
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How do you shim a door? My doors are sitting just crooked enough that they don't rub at the top, but I can see daylight at the bottom (on the side of the door that isn't hinged). For some reason I thought you could put something behind the hinge on the part that needs to be pushed out. Then, I saw a door installation on television and they shimmed the door in the framing before hanging the door and moulding. Is there a that I can do this 'rigged' until I can afford to have someone come out and do the job correctly? Thanks, Kay Ps. I can't seem to find anything online or in my home repair books on realigning doors that are already hanging. Only new installs. K. Small corrections to installed doors can be accomplished by shimming behind the hinges. Old playing cards, the cardboard from pads of paper work well. Not corrugated, it compresses to much. The door was probably shimmed at installation, but has moved from settling since then. Or you can remove the casing from both sides of the jambs and use cedar shims between the door jamb and the stud to get it aligned right. That's a fix that will be permanent. Playing cards behind a hinge works, and it will last a long time. But I wouldn't go that route if it needs more than 2 or 3 cards to make it right. Could replacing the hinges be a solution? When we moved in the house a couple of years ago, the doors weren't like this. Ive had to replace door knobs on one of these two doors because my children would be talking to their friends, with the door open and leaning on the doorknob; or on the knob with the door closed. I've even caught my youngest boy standing on the doorknobs and his friend swinging the door with him on it. The one door that I'm afraid I'll have to have someone do for me is the the back door. It appears to be two doors, but one is just really a matching window. The hinges are attached to that. Another reason I'm asking about the hinges is because to securely lock the back door I have to take a large screwdriver and pry upward from the bottom of the door before the deadbolt will fully engage. At that point there is little airflow around the door from the outside and I can no longer see daylight around it. We use the door a lot, so we leave it partially locked. It secures the door, but I'm not sure how well against an intruder. We do have an alarm system so hopefully that would send someone running if they choose that door to enter the house. Kay Check the screws in the hinges and make sure they are tight. Having to pry a door up to get a latch to work usually means the screws have worked out part way. At least one screw going into the jamb should be at least 2 inches long to reach into the stud. If you cannot tighten every screw on the hinge, take a screw to a hardware store and get the same diameter but at least 3/4 inch longer. Kay, It's POSSIBLE that the kids bent a hinge by using the door as a swing, but not likely. Hinges are 1/8 steel. USUALLY the screws will pull out of the jamb long before the hinge plate bends. Follow brickeye's advise and check the screws first. Replace any that won't tighten with longer ones. If you still have the problem, hinges are a couple bucks each. It won't break the bank to replace a few of them!! If the playing cards, a couple dollars worth of screws and $5 worth of hinges don't cure the problem, THEN you're just gonna have to bite the bullet and reshim the door. (A bundle of shims is less than $10) You're probably into this thing for less than $20 -- but it might take 4 days to correct the problem!! (LOL!!) Mike Kay: If you haven't already repaired your doors; here is another solution that might work. Example: On the door that you have to pry up to get the deadbolt to engage; try this: Remove the pin from the bottom hinge and the middle hinge (if there is a middle hinge) with the door shut and the deadbolt engaged. You may have to remove the pins before you actually raise the door with your screwdriver because I am sure the hinges are in a bind. Once the deadbolt is engaged and the pins removed, look at the two hinge leaves. Probably, you will notice that the two leaves don't line up evenly. You will need some vice-grips for this next part. Look at the circular part (where the pin goes) on the door side and tightly clamp the vice-grips onto each part and bend until it lines up with the jamb side. If there is much difference you can bend some on the door side and the jamb side (of course, in opposite directions) until both the door side and the jamb side line up. At this point, I would put the pin back into the hinge on the bottom and then take a look at the middle hinge. Repeat this same procedure for the middle hinge if necessary. You will find that even with new hinges the swag of the hinges will vary. You can move a door anyway you want with this method. The only drawback is that you scratch the hinges with the vice-grips but you have to look close to notice. Let me know if you try this and if you have any success. Bruce Bruce, I did a shim with playing cards, but don't think I did it correctly. There is less air coming in around the door, however the dead bolt still doesn't lock and I noticed that the door is now 'out' further than before (not flush in there). It hasn't been terribly cold here but when the wind decides to calm down a little I'll try what you recommened and post back with the results. This will be easier than trying to install new hinges since these are different styled hinges than I have in the shop. I will post with my results, and thanks! Kay I haven't forgotten about posting the results, just wanted to let you know that I haven't had a chance to even try realigning the hinges yet. Kay We tried realigning the hinges and it has helped A LOT. Still needs to be shimmed in the frame I guess. That one will have to wait until it gets much warmer outside! It has stopped a majority of the drafts coming in around the door but I still can't lock the door completely without having to pull up on the door itself. At least now I don't have to pry it up (door) with a screwdriver to get it to lock all the way. Thanks everyone! Kay Enlarge the hole in the jamb slightly that the dead bolt goes into. You might need a file to enlarge the hole in the strike plate. Hello again everyone! Now that many months have gone by I finally attempted to actually shim my doors. I did one of them! I took the trim off and saw the principal behind the shimming, etc. I shimmed the bottom corner and it straightened the door out inside the frame, but the top of the door still stuck out further than the frame. That's when I realized the the frame of the door (that comes with the door) was not equally flush around the cut out in the wall. I enlisted some help of a neighbor and we backed the nails out, realigned the frame as it should be and nailed it back into the door frame of the house itself. I'm not sure I named the parts correctly, but it worked and I'm thrilled! No more daylight coming in around the door and the room is already so much cooler than it has been since we moved in here 2 years ago! I didn't even break up the trim when I removed replaced it for this project. I will attempt the back door later (the one I realigned the hinges on earlier this year). I may need some help with it since its a double door (one doesn't open - just for looks). I believe that now we just need to check the flushness of the frame that came with the door, and if that's not it I will post pictures since it will require something else because its hung next to and one the other door that doesn't move. Thanks again! Kay
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Flashlight Drill Circular Saw Corner Cat sander Impact driver (this little guy is awesome...favorite of the bunch) Spiral Saw (tile work, drywall cuts at work) Reciprocating saw (pruning trees, cutting pipe) I like Ryobi for what I need. I don't use them everyday, but I use them often enough either at home or work to know that I like them. I haven't had a battery run out on me other than the circular saw. However, I did use a battery that was on my drill rather than right off the charger. I would rather have a 7 1/4 version of the 18V circular saw, but maybe that's just being greedy. Some may downgrade Ryobi because of the build quality vs. higher brands (like Makita, Milwaulkee, etc...), but I have to say, for me....they're pro quality. DO NOT BUY THE NAIL GUN!!! I did forget to mention that when buying the tools separately, they don't come with a battery. The two that come with the kit should be enough though. I did however, buy another one...just in case. Thanks for your reply, actually, do you think it is suitable for a starter? do you have more suggestions or comments on it? Is it easy to use? any danger.... do you think a female can handle home improvement with this series? I am a girl, and... any other girls can reply me .......? thx Originally Posted by Rapture DO NOT BUY THE NAIL GUN!!! what are the problems of the nail gun ?? I have been very happy with my 18V kit of: Drill Circular Saw Reciprocating saw (Saws all) Flashlight My kit came with the hand vac, which I have found to be useless. The 18V units are much heavier than the 14V or 12V so pick the drill up at the store and determine for yourself if you can handle it all right. It appears to me that the 14 and 12V models are starting to become extinct, but I could be wrong. Overall, as a part-time DIY I'd recommend the Ryobi. Also see http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=240208 on this site. (Anyone use the 18V caulking gun?) Don I have the combo kit almost two years old , they meet my expectations . the chainsaw is a joke I do much better/faster with the reciprocating saw with a aggressive wood blade. the switch went out on the drill a few weeks ago while I was putting up shutters for hurricane Wilma , not wanting to be without a drill in case it hit here (it went south of us ) I went to home depot and bought the one plus 3 speed hammer drill which I had been looking at anyway since I have a job coming up where I will be drilling a lot of prestressed concrete . as I have mentioned before I see them used on a lot of job sites locally by tradesmen . I use mine professionally but usage is probably closer to serious DIY as they dont get used every day and when they are it is usually for short periods . I wouldn't discount the quality on ryobi , in my experience they are equal to the makita, dewalt and milwaukee that I have owned (and replaced) Originally Posted by kakakawai Thanks for your reply, actually, do you think it is suitable for a starter? do you have more suggestions or comments on it? Is it easy to use? any danger.... do you think a female can handle home improvement with this series? I am a girl, and... any other girls can reply me .......? thx Easy answer to your question is yes. Very easy to use. And...they are blue...girls love blue Originally Posted by kakakawai what are the problems of the nail gun ?? 90% of users that have commented on this gun have given negative comments. They say it won't drive all the way down. I would stay away from it until they come out with an improved version. My opinion of course. Originally Posted by dwcurry I have been very happy with my 18V kit of: Drill Circular Saw Reciprocating saw (Saws all) Flashlight My kit came with the hand vac, which I have found to be useless. The 18V units are much heavier than the 14V or 12V so pick the drill up at the store and determine for yourself if you can handle it all right. It appears to me that the 14 and 12V models are starting to become extinct, but I could be wrong. Overall, as a part-time DIY I'd recommend the Ryobi. Also see http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=240208 on this site. (Anyone use the 18V caulking gun?) Don I've only heard from people who have used the caulking gun...they have said that even on the lowest setting, it comes out too fast. I personally haven't used it, so I can't comment any further. Originally Posted by Rapture Easy answer to your question is yes. Very easy to use. And...they are blue...girls love blue O i see, but why ...... all of you seems dislike the preset combo kit, the tools came with the combo kit always useless? ....the chainsaw, hand vac... also, ryobi drill is damaged easily?! switch went out...=.= another question, most of you like 14.4V or 12V? why don't you like 18V, what 's the problem...too heavy, bulky? is that mean, the chain saw and the hand vac are useless, caulking gun comes out too fast, nail gun can't drive. However, ryobi quality is good as milwaukee. a funny thing.....Blue color, the girls love blue, haha~ how do you know? as someone said, 18V is heavy and bulky, i think so, i am a chinese, my hands are small, can't hold it....~ Originally Posted by kakakawai O i see, but why ...... all of you seems dislike the preset combo kit, the tools came with the combo kit always useless? ....the chainsaw, hand vac... also, ryobi drill is damaged easily?! switch went out...=.= another question, most of you like 14.4V or 12V? why don't you like 18V, what 's the problem...too heavy, bulky? is that mean, the chain saw and the hand vac are useless, caulking gun comes out too fast, nail gun can't drive. However, ryobi quality is good as milwaukee. a funny thing.....Blue color, the girls love blue, haha~ how do you know? as someone said, 18V is heavy and bulky, i think so, i am a chinese, my hands are small, can't hold it....~ I was just having some fun the the blue color comment. I think with a lot of sets of any kind, whether it's dealing with tools or any other kind of sets, there will be something in there you won't find necessary. The little hand vac, I don't find useful for anything regardless of who makes it. The caulking gun may have been too fast for whatever application he was using it for...I don't recall what they were doing with it. The nail gun, just like anything else when it's new, could have flaws. I would consider getting it once a newer version is made. For me, I can wait on a nailer (it would be for work anyway...so no rush). I love the 18V size and power. You don't need man hands to use these tools. It also depends on the tool too. Obviously, the chain saw is going to be bigger than the flashlight, but it doesn't make it any harder to hold. If there is a Home Depot near you, I would size up the tools to see if like them (I think you will). If it's an order on the internet and you are worried about not liking all the included tools...you can always do what I did and purchase the smaller kit and buy more as you go. I hope this helps some. Originally Posted by Rapture I was just having some fun the the blue color comment. I think with a lot of sets of any kind, whether it's dealing with tools or any other kind of sets, there will be something in there you won't find necessary. The little hand vac, I don't find useful for anything regardless of who makes it. The caulking gun may have been too fast for whatever application he was using it for...I don't recall what they were doing with it. The nail gun, just like anything else when it's new, could have flaws. I would consider getting it once a newer version is made. For me, I can wait on a nailer (it would be for work anyway...so no rush). I love the 18V size and power. You don't need man hands to use these tools. It also depends on the tool too. Obviously, the chain saw is going to be bigger than the flashlight, but it doesn't make it any harder to hold. If there is a Home Depot near you, I would size up the tools to see if like them (I think you will). If it's an order on the internet and you are worried about not liking all the included tools...you can always do what I did and purchase the smaller kit and buy more as you go. I hope this helps some. Update... I'm applying some cove base in my theater (where I work) and decided to give the caulk gun a try. It's not bad. The pressure it puts on it even in the lowest setting does give a good enough push to let out a decent amount with a tiny bit of leftovers. Work paid for it....money well spent for the amount of cove base needing to put redone. I was in home depot today and noticed the new 18 volt Ryobi P201 Torque Drill, does this mean they are getting rid of the P200 with the built in Level? I really like the P200 just the way it is. Originally Posted by KevinB I was in home depot today and noticed the new 18 volt Ryobi P201 Torque Drill, does this mean they are getting rid of the P200 with the built in Level? I really like the P200 just the way it is. Not sure?? I was just looking at ryboitools.com and the P210 has a level. I don't have the hammer drill (either versions), so I'm not sure what the differences are with the drills...unless they are still using an old picture. That could be what I'm seeing. What doe the impact driver do that the drill or hammer drill does not do? Originally Posted by dwcurry What doe the impact driver do that the drill or hammer drill does not do? This is solely my experience only... The drill is a decent drill. It will do things without any problems. It's when you do have those problems you wish you had something better. The Impact Driver has 850 lbs. of torque compared to the drill at 175 lbs. (I could be slightly of with the drill, but not by much). I was driving screws with my drill into studs and once I got to a point where the drill wanted to start stripping the nails....well, I started to get angry. I remembered I had just bought the Impact driver for work, so I tried that out. It is very compact, has a light attached (tiny, but still a light). Once I started using the impact driver, it was obvious this little had a lot more power. Once it hits the stripping spot if it were a normal drill, the impact part kicks in. I had no problems with this guy doing the task. I also use this daily to repair armrests at my theater. I was using a drill, but this thing goes through the steel like butter. I don't have or used the hammerdrill....sorry I should also mention that the impact driver should be used when 100% percent accuracy isn't needed. Unlike the drill and hammerdrill, the impact driver uses 1/4 hex shanks. This causes a slight inaccuracy when using the impact driver due to shaking. This isn't too big a deal though. Originally Posted by KevinB I was in home depot today and noticed the new 18 volt Ryobi P201 Torque Drill, does this mean they are getting rid of the P200 with the built in Level? I really like the P200 just the way it is. i think,....... some new drill kit ...P201 some combo kit with P200 wor, why don't like P201? no Home Depot ....as i am in Hong Kong~ ^^ So how about the recip saw ? or other one plus tool? what .......should be add into one plus series, um, i mean... what tools or what home appliances, if it can be used as one plus, cordless way, so ideal, what should be improved of one plus, nail gun ? really don't know what are the problems of this nail gun, i think 18V is heavy, or because i am a chinese girl. do you like the design of one plus, i think one plus quite stylish. when will you use one plus, will it be used by the professional craftsmen? Originally Posted by kakakawai i think,....... some new drill kit ...P201 some combo kit with P200 wor, why don't like P201? no Home Depot ....as i am in Hong Kong~ ^^ So how about the recip saw ? or other one plus tool? what .......should be add into one plus series, um, i mean... what tools or what home appliances, if it can be used as one plus, cordless way, so ideal, what should be improved of one plus, nail gun ? really don't know what are the problems of this nail gun, i think 18V is heavy, or because i am a chinese girl. do you like the design of one plus, i think one plus quite stylish. when will you use one plus, will it be used by the professional craftsmen? Forgive me if I'm wrong, but are you asking because you are going to be using these tools? It sounds more like you are doing a paper for school work. its market research for a new tool line to compete with ryobi Originally Posted by mango man its market research for a new tool line to compete with ryobi um.......say.... actually .......i got this ryobi one plus combo kit, however, i just used few of 10 tools and i don't know do home improvement, ......and of cause, i really need to know more... cause i am thinking of a new tool, i want to design a new tool, if you remember, i am a design student, that why i want to know more. market research or any research is not necessary, i did already, i just finding a problem or a need, to improve power tool. hope you all will forgive me too. How many more posts does this guy have to make before you guys realize your chain is being pulled? Time for a moderator to do his job and deep six kawasaki. Hi - I think I can shed some light on the drills - and was hoping someone in turn might have some feedback. So - here's what I've learned, in part by a few calls to Ryobi tech support. The P200 (older version) - has max torque of 400, max speed of 1300 or 1400 rpm. It has two levels. It is slightly bigger and heavier than P201. Chuck is different - seems more heavy-duty to me but I don't know if that's true. The P201 (newer) has max torque of 350, max speed of 1600. No levels. Lighter and smaller than P200 - not a lot, but noticeable. Chuck seems flimsier to me. They added a switch to help quickly switch back and forth between drill and drive mode. What this does is remove the torque limiter without having to turn the torque dial. So - if you're switching between drilling and driving repeatedly, instead of having to turn the dial to drill setting then back to whatever torque setting you were using, each time - you can just flip the switch which could be convenient. So - my impression is - P200 - more heavy duty, less bells and whistles. P201 - convenience of drill/drive switch, but some loss of power and perhaps solidity. Anyone have extensive experience with either one? What's more confusing is that at least in my Home Depot, if you look at the various combo kits out there - you may see some with P200 and some with P201. Similarly, the P500 and P501 Circ saws differ only in that the P500 has the laser guide, the P501 does not. So again, the sense is that they have cheapened the newer models. The starter sets seem to have the P501 (no laser). But one of the higher end combos seems to have the P500. Michael One correction to last post: P200 has a double sleeve chuck; P201 has a single sleeve.
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Hello all, I am going to try to replace a Woodford model 14 outdoor faucet in my mothers condo garage. It has a slow drip and recently you can only turn the handle about a third of a turn right or left. As it's probably 30 years old I am just going to replace the whole thing rather than trying to replace parts. A photo of the replacement unit is on the top of the web page listed below. Woodford Outdoor Faucets It seems as though the procedure will be as follows and I am looking for confirmation: 1) Turn off water at the shut off inside house. 2) Unscrew and remove handle. 3) Unscrew and remove brown collar attached to sheetrock garage wall. 4) Unscrew whole pipe and handle unit from the wall. Replace by screwing in the new unit and re-attaching handle and wall collar. Is it as easy as this? How do I know how long of a pipe section to get? I assume the pipe junction will not end in the wall but hopefully inside? I have not looked at where the pipe comes through the wall inside the house yet. Any thoughts or links to tutorials/step by step instructions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Regards, wvdthree You definitely need to look at where the faucet/hose bib connects to the house piping. It may not be threaded but instead soldered on. But instead of all that...why not simply replace the washer that seals off the water? Part 8 in this diagram.... http://www.plumbingstore.com/woodfordparts.html . I would also replace 4 5 at the same time. It could be a simple rebuild and some plumbers grease will fix it right up. A good local hardware or plumbing supply store should have what you need. Maybe $5 in parts and 30 min vs $25 or more and an hour if all goes well. Gunguy, Thanks for the response! Are you suggesting that the handle is only turning a third of a turn as a result of the washer,packing and packing support pieces having gone bad? I would have guessed that for the slow leak but didn't know what was causing the handle to not turn properly. wvdthree Well, I was really just saying that you COULD get into a much bigger job, when a few parts might correct it. Really, the only way to know for sure is to get the parts you may need, disassemble the valve and check for problems....could be some corrosion or mineral build up is causing the problem. Thats what I'd try first anyway....but I'm a fix it, patch it up, make it work kinda guy. Again, it may really depend on how it's attached to the house piping, if its threaded, yeah, might not be a big deal..if soldered..do you have the skills and tools needed? Oh....is it leaking all the time..even when turned off? Or only when turned on? Thanks again! I'll check to see how it's attached in the house. If it's threaded and easily accessed I'll gladly spend the $25 and replace the whole thing rather than disassemble. My times a bit a a premium these days. Seems to be a slow leak all of the time now in addition to the hardly turning handle. Yeah...sealing washer then. Check it out and see what the best course of action is.
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How do I replace the exhaust system in my 92 Honda Accord LX? In short, cut out the old one with a torch, sawzall or air compressor whiz wheel and bolt up the new from the converter back. Without air and power tools, this is a dirty, nasty PITA type job. Most Hondas have their exhaust on rubber hangers, making things a bit easier, however everything is likely rusted together. If you have access to air and power tools, I say go for it. If not, price it out to have it done...might come out cheaper. I am a diehard DIYer, but a few things are not worth it--exhaust is one--take it to a muffler shop--get several quotes--and use the cheapest. You will get a better made/fitting product for not much more than buying the prebent systems and doing it yourself! If you replace everything from the convertor back, you can usually get the whole system from AutoZone or PepBoys. On a Honda there's only the small matter of cutting off the convertor bolts (they can be replaced), unhooking all 3 or 4 rubber hangers, and dropping the whole old system down. After it's in the open it's a breeze to chop it in little tiny pieces if you want to. The new system will mostly be bolted together, make sure you put gaskets in there. It took me 2 hours to replace it. I gave up on opening bolts on exaust, I simply take my grinder and cut them off. Be careful of poor quality exhaust parts. Watch out. Some fit hokey, rattle and leak, and aren't worth soda can deposit money. Stick with Walker, AP or another known quality line of exhaust for minimal frustration and headaches. Again, access to power and air tools is key to an expedient and quick job. A Sawzall makes fast work out of exhaust pipe . The air grinder on a compressor makes fast work out of bolts as well. Even Walker and AP parts don't fit Hondas especially well. They don't last as long as OEM either. If you're going to keep the car for more than 2 years, buy OEM parts. They cost about 2X as much as Walker or AP, but they fit perfectly they last much longer. If you plan on ditching the car in 2 years or less, go w/ the aftermarket parts.
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I have a Snapper self propelled with a 6.0 BS Quantum XM engine. Only two years old but can not crank it. It will run for a few seconds then die. I have inspected and cleaned paper air breather and foam filter (did not oil). I have replaced the fuel filter. I have inspected the spark plug, cleaned and re-gapped it to .30. It still will not run. So according to the BS manual that I have the next thing is to rebuild the carburetor. I have never done this. The manual Small Engine Care and Repair is of course somewhat generic, i.e. it speaks of idle adjustments when my engine does not have such. No throttle adjustment it runs at a constant speed (when it's running). I am a little tenetive about trying to remove and install this kit. I want to be able to do this myself and also save the 60.00 I would have to pay to have it done for me, but guess I am overly cautious. Do you folks think that I should follow the general instructions in this manual with some confidence that they will be reasonably accurate or does anyone have any advice? Would appreciate any advice or references. Thanks, luggage Actually, that manual you have is a good book and details quite well carburetor servicing. I sell many a year at my shop and think they're valuable. The most important thing with servicing carburetors is to soak them in a quality bath type cleaner (I like Napa #6401) as spray cleaners aren't much good on heavily varnished carbs. Don't concern yourself with removing any of the welch plugs though if you have no experience...you can easily damage the carb if done improperly. Here's what you do: Post back with the engine ID#'s, remove the carb, remove all plastic and rubber pieces (including the inlet seat), soak the bare carb in the above cleaner for 15 minutes (this solution is very caustic...use protective eyewear and rubber gloves), install the correct genuine carb kit and away you go. Note that if you want a more detailed service book, purchase a Briggs service manual specific to your engine series...you'll need to post back with ID #'s so I can give you all pertinent numbers (parts and manual). Thanks for responding so quickly. I'll give you all that I have. BS Quantum XM 6.0, Model 12802 Type 1987-B1 Code 01022357 Family YBSX.1901VC 274466. I am told by the Snapper dealer that there are not any idle adjustment screws. It stays at one speed all the time. So far when it is running it seem to have enough power. I just never had a mower that did not have a throttle adjustment. Thanks again, luggage You're missing one digit in the model #, post back as this is an important number. All newer carbs, whether walk-mower, riding-mower, trimmer, etc. are non-adjustable. This is so that they meet EPA emissions regs. As far as the fixed throttle is concerned, I've seen more and more come through my shop as such. Seems senseless to me. There is a tab which you can bend up on the speed control and then install a remote throttle control making it adjustable...not a bad job to do at all. Look closely at the speed control and you should figure it out. Sorry about that. The complete number is 12H802 Thanks luggage Carburetor kit # - 498260, manual # - 270962. Check with your local Briggs Stratton dealer for these. I suggest a Murray fits-all throttle control, part # 420005 or similar if you plan on making a adjustable throttle. Just an idea, u may be able to verify if the carb is the problem or not b4 kitting it. Your description of the problem only says it starts but will not stay running. Try starting it then nursing it with a few drops of gas into the carb, if it tries or continues to run, this would verify a fuel problem and kitting or cleaning the carb would be a correct step in solving it. If it does not contunue to run or try to, then you may have other issues. I bring this up becuz I have a Honda rider in my shop that the customer had the exact same complaint on. I have been unable to get it to start at all. I traced it to an intermitten/weak coil. It is possible for safety switches to also cause these symptoms. Also, many of the newer carbs have plastic parts, some of which I have seen are not meant to be removed. The carb cleaner puey mentions is AWESOME stuff but will destroy plastic, rubber, skin.... If your carb has plastic parts or fittings, I would not recomend soaking it in this cleaner. Remove as many metal parts as you can and soak them, then use spray cleaner on the rest of it.
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