I'm building a fence using pressure treated pine. What nails should I use? I have a porter cable framing nail gun. I read somewhere that I should not use galvanized nails with the pressure treated wood. Any truth to this? All of the nails I've seen so far for nail guns are galvanized. Also, I was planning on using 3 inch nails to nail the rails (2x4s) to the posts, and 2 inch nails to nail the pickets to the rails. Does that sound right? Thanks.
I too have heard something of that nature, that galvanized nails should not be used with Pressure treated fencing. Honestly , I have never had issue with it, but who knows maybe there is something in the new pressure treating chemicals that reacts with the galvanized coatings of nails or such. Still , never having an issue does not mean that there is nothing wrong with it. I will investigate more myself. The best way to investigate this is to contact the nail company you have been purchasing from. That is what I am going to try to do tomorrow morning . We will see. I will let you know more when I know more. till then.
Hmmm yeah, that seems just the opposite of everything I've ever been taught or heard. Matter of fact, seems like when the new PT stuff came out they said you needed to use the extra heavy galvanized fasteners. That was a big thing I remember a few years back, they said look for the stuff that was approved for use with ACQ (what we had in our area) as the old CCA approved stuff would corrode in short order.
The new chemicals in pressure treated wood require zinc coated joist hangers other hardware. If you go to Home Depot, you'll see a lot of hardware with a Zmax label on it. I just looked in the Simpson Strong Tie book. I see nails there but I don't see them marked as zinc coated. I don't think the pocket size book is complete. I suggest you call them. 800 999 5099
I use Bostitch framers when framing, but use a Senco 602 for decks and railings (fences too). The main reason for that is the Bostitch nails are thickcoat galvanized, and I'm not too sure how good that is, yet. The Senco uses hot dipped galvanized nails, which work superbly on the exposed ACQ applications. Will the PC shoot hot dipped galvanized nails?
Yep. I found some 3 Hitachi hot dipped galvanized nails at Lowes that work with my gun. It takes 21 or 22 degree nails which I've had trouble finding. I'm in search for some 2 ones to do the pickets. HD only has 30 degree ones and Lowes only goes down to 2 3/8' for the 21 degree. I'm going to try a local store tomorrow that supposedly has a much larger selection of nails.
Be aware that there are TWO different galvanizing processes. The new PT lumber (ACQ) will eat aluminum in a matter of months. Electro-plated galvanized metal lasts maybe a year or so in it. Hot dipped galvanized products last MUCH longer in it. Simpson Z-Max seems to be standing up to the ACQ. That is all I have used (as far as hangers and other deck hardware) on the ACQ since it came out several years ago. As far as fasteners (which is more what this discussion is about), all I use is Stainless Steel or screws that are coated so as to be ACQ approved. As far as a fence, I DO NOT and WOULD NOT use nails to attach the fence boards to the rails. That is why the good lord gave us SCREWS!!
Originally Posted by lefty As far as a fence, I DO NOT and WOULD NOT use nails to attach the fence boards to the rails. That is why the good lord gave us SCREWS!! Well, it all depends. Where I lived in SE Washington State is high desert (very loose, sandy soil) and the wind blows a lot. Gusts to 30 or 40 mph are not unusual. Privacy fences are typically installed using metal posts cemented at least 3 feet into the ground. The fence boards are nailed on, using relatively short nails. The idea is that a big gust will maybe blow off some boards rather than blow over the whole fence.
I have a Stihl Pro FS85 weedeater that has been running fine for years. Now I can't get it to run over an idle. It chokes down when I pull the throttle. I changed the spark plug and attempted to adjust the carb. The carb adjustments do not match what the manual show. The manual shows three adjustment screws but the carb only has one! what's up with this? I have searched online and cannot find anything concerning this. Anyone have an idea?
Not all trimmers of the same model have the exact same carbs on them. It sounds to me like you may have a blocked spark arrestor screen in the exhaust.
Thanks for the info. How do you find out what carburetor it is? How do I get to the spark arrestor screen?
You can get to the spark arrestor by removing the muffler..Carb spray cleaner a tooth brush works well for cleaning these... I'm afraid you'll have to remove the carb to find out exactly what you have... If a Walbro,, Zama,, etc, go to there websites download the service manual... Buy a carb kit recondition the carb if everything else is well,, You'll be good to go!!!
That is a great brand of trimmer. Probably one of the best. I think Cheese has it right. Clean that spark arrestor and replace or clean the plug and your probably good to go for a year. I do it once a year now that I have found how much better it makes them run. Here is what I do. I pull the muffler and clean the screen with a brass wire brush. I then clean the muffler engine port of carbon with a small stick of wood,that way I wont damage the cylinder or piston. Wooden popsicle sticks work great for cleaning the port.
Thanks, I have been reading some other information on the net that people are removing the screen completely. Is this ok to do? Also, I have adjusted on the one adjustment screw and now I don't know how it should be set initially. do I need to completley remove the muffler to clean it?
please forgive me for asking about removing the muffler, you have already said to remove it. another senior moment!
I got it fixed! I took the muffler off and cleaned it and took the carb apart and cleaned it, put it back together and it it fired up and ran like new. Thank all of you for your help. This is a great forum.Beer 4U2 Bruce
Great! Glad you got it! Thanks for the update.
Might want to use high test gas from now on.
I don't recommend it. Use non-ethanol fuel if you can.
I have a patio with corrugated fiberglass roofing. The panels are old, look horrible, are loose so they rattle when it's windy and no surprise, they leak. Some of the rafters that support the panels aren't in great shape so I'd like to remove the panels, replace any rafters that need it and paint all of them. The problem I need help with is finding a decent substitute for the fiberglass. The roof is almost flat so tying in with the 3-tab roofing of the house isn't an option. The roof is also very low. It's just 86 inches from floor to the bottom of the raters at the highest point. It slopes to 82.5 inches across the 13 foot width of the patio I live in the rainy Seattle area so an open roof / pergola doesn't seem practical. The house is 80 years old and used to be a barn so those add-on sun rooms wouldn't match the style of the house. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Exactly how is it tied to the house, since you don't have the option of tying to the shingles? Are all the panels corrugated fiberglas? You may want to post a couple of pictures so we can see what you see. http://forum.doityourself.com/electr...your-post.html
Yes, the entire covered patio area has corrugated panels for the roof. (part of the patio is uncovered). The wood rafters for the patio are attached to the facia on house and the corrugated panels sit on that wood and are tucked under the edge of the houses roof. I'll get some photos taken today and post them to show it clearly. Thanks for the reply.
In the meantime, do you want the translucence in the roofing, or solid panels?
Here in cloudy Seattle some translucent would be nice but my main priority is something that looks nice. It's a real eyesore now. if the camera battery is charged I should have some photos soon
A photo of the patio and a bit of the roof of the house http://www.torrtech.com/House-Patio.jpg The patio is 13 ft across, the covered area is about 20 long with 10 ft uncovered Here's a closeup of how it's attached at the roof.http://www.torrtech.com/AttachCloseUp.jpg You can see how the corrugated panel is tucked under the roof If there are any other shots that would be helpful just let me know.
That's a long span for 2x4 lumber. I like the wringer washer, too. I'll only address the covering and let you check span tables for the 2x lumber required for that span. You can purchase galvanized panels of the same design as your fiberglas. Having only one or three of the fiberglas panels across the span, and the galv panels filling the majority of the roof, you may have a better looking roof and one that is not as susceptible to damage from falling limbs, etc.
Does the photo look like the panels are sitting on 2x4s? Those are actually 2x6 but I'll definitely check about code. Thanks for the tip about the galvanized panels. I'll check them out. Sounds like a reasonable solution. Glad you like the wringer washer What do you do with something like that when you inherit it? Fill it with pansies and put it in the yard? I'm sure somebody creative could come up with something fun.. I just need to find them!
You're right on the size of lumber, but it will only span about 10' 6 without midspan support. My dad grew his best tomatoes in an old toilet base. Somehow it was able to retain just enough water for growth and allow the excess to drain off. Interesting how we use old things.
You're in Seattle -- about 50 miles south of me. You want as much natural light coming thru the cover as possible. Tis is not an option for a patio cover. (Too dark!) Fiberglass is somewhat better, but still pretty dark. I use the clear Tuf Stuff panels frome HD. As much light as possible gets thru and they are acrylic -- MUCH stronger than fiberglass.
Thanks Lefty. I'll check them out. I agree about the more light the better in the part of the country.
I'll just add $0.02 in here. I lived in Seattle and did roofs. (FHS 57) Difficult to imagine why the builders of the Patio, obviously added afterwards, didnt snuggle the Patio up to the Soffit board and meld the roof into the patio panels. Move the Patio Mating plank up to the Soffit plank of the house. Slide your new Fiber glass panels up under the roofings First Undercourse, and go on out from there. You have a contigous leak proof extension of your roof. You can go out to the Headache board and raise that up to suit you or leave the angle as it is for better drainage. That will do wonders to keep that dirty stuff from collecting up there. It's not too late to do that now. You could raise your Patio roof about 6 at the roof and some out at the Head banger at the top of the steps. I saw this once in Alaska over a guy's patio. He'd somehow cast a large Fiberglass looking bubble and fastened it down on his patio. It looked great. I see them on Roof lights as well. Maybe a Plastics Mfg in Seattle can quote you on that? In AK I wanted what you have, but couldn't! So I bought one of the Curved Glass Atrium or Greenhouse thingys. It was used. A lot of work but when it was all done it was a great place to lunch and have coffee in the evening. The drawback was the constant dripping. That thing condensed about half a gallon per day in constant dripping. It had a vent you could crank open, which helped, but the solving was a Fan set out there that ran all the time. Boy was that a great place for gardeners and flower pot people.
Tags: corrugated, roof, panels, check them, constant dripping, corrugated panels, galvanized panels, great place, http torrtech, like wringer, like wringer washer, rafters that, roof some
While opening the outside faucet, the handle broke off. Here is a picture of the faucet. (I am seeing couple of terms, hose bib, sil co*k etc not sure what I have). The green handle is broken, Its not rotating the valve that turns water on or off. (and it has turned the valve on ..) I have a shut off valve just inside the wall. here is a picture of that. I have shut that off. Here is the basement wall which hides this shut off valve. Whats the best way to fix it? If it needs to be replaced, I would like to use quarter turn ball valve hose bib (something like this, much easier to turn on or off). I am in MA .. Thanks
There should be a screw in the center of the handle that holds it on the faucet stem but yours is missing. Pull the handle off (it may need some slight persuading) and see if the screw is actually missing or if it is broken off inside the stem. The handle attaches to the faucet stem with a spline connection and is held in place by the screw. More likely as not the faucet stem spline is just fine but it is stripped out in the handle as the handle is as soft die-cast metal. If this is true then you can purchase a new handle and screw for a buck or two at any decent hardware store. Amazingly, a huge mega-mart homecenter may not have just the handle but will require you to purchase an entire faucet assembly. As for replacing the entire faucet with the quarter-turn model...I cannot be certain but I think you have a threaded faucet with a threaded adapter soldered onto the copper piping from the inside shut-off valve and the outside faucet. Theoretically you could just unscrew it from the outside but as a practical matter if you tried this there would be a good chance of twisting (and breaking) the copper piping and it could be before or after that inside shut-off valve. If I were doing the job I would cut the copper downstream of the shut-off valve and then pull the faucet out, replace the outside faucet and re-install the assembly using a soldered coupling at the inside valve. You could also use a shark bite no-solder coupling at the inside valve.
I took out to screw since the handle didn't seem to turn the faucet stem. I will post a picture of the broken handle later. How do I ensure that I have threaded adapter at the end of the copper pipe? Can I ask a helper to hold the inside copper pipe with a pipe wrench (channel lock) and turn the outside faucet with another pipe wrench? Will that ensure that inside water pipe does not break at the solder?
Where the valve is inside the house, see if you could stick your arms in there toward the valve. You should be able to feel if its threaded. Thats if you can reach that far. You are better off cutting that valve out and replace it with a F/F type. Vacumm breakers are often required. Amazon.com: LDR 020 6410 10-Inch Frost Proof Sillcock, Chrome Plated: Home Improvement Shut the inside valve off Cut the pipe after the valve, and leave 2 or so of copper pipe. Remove the old hose bib Get a new hose bib, and solder a length of pipe the length of the old hose bib and pipe. ( if you understand this) Then when you slip in the new hose bib it should but pipe to pipe where you cut inside the house. Use a coupling, and solder. Hope this helps Mike NJ
thanks Mike .. I tried and I think I reached the end of the inside wall but did not feel the threads. I think I do understand what you are saying .. But that is beyond my expertise/confidence. So I would need to hire someone to do it It seems that just by changing the handle, it might be OK. So I am going to try that first.
The handles I think are cast. They crack sometimes, and strip. If the stem still has splines, then the trick is finding the correct handle and screw. Mike NJ
I have a similar faucet on the side of my house. Today I discovered it is dripping slowly so it is either take it apart and fix it or replace it. I like the idea of a quarter-turn valve but I don't know off hand if they have models with vacuum breakers, which are required by plumbing codes almost everywhere. Anyway, I KNOW my valve is threaded with a copper thread adapter because I installed it only a few years ago. I can't see the threaded adapter (nor feel it) because the siding and sheathing is too thick where the pipe enters the wall. I can't use a frost-proof because it goes through the garage wall which is only 2X4 construction with no interior wall. Oh, I suppose I could use a frost-proof but it would look kind of funky inside. Downside is that I've never seen a frost-free that was also a quarter-turn faucet.
Yes they have 1/4 turn FF. The problem with 1/4 turn FF is the majority of them are ceramic disk type cartridges. We all know what sediment does to these right? And please dont tell me your water has no sediment. Are you talking ball valve hose bibs? Those are really boilerdrains I think. There is some code I think. really not sure. I feel any hose bib replacement should have a vacuum breaker. I only use mansfield because rebuilds are easy. from 4-14 Also if you want to retrofit a old style with breaker or backflow . Page 18,19 Page 24 has just the breakers for old style. Alot of homeowners use them to me code during the sale of a home. http://www.mansfieldplumbing.com/ima...sPriceList.pdf Mike NJ
Thanks, Mike. No, I don't want any ceramic disc valves and I won't insult you by (falsely) claiming my water has no sediment. I've seen the ball valve sillcocks, the ones with a flange to butt up against the siding. How good they are is another question that I have no answer. My faucet in the back is a frost-free and I have another that (someday) I plan on installing on the other side of the house. Gotta get the crawlspace cleaned out first 'cause it's just too nasty down there to crawl on my belly to the other side of the house. I have (somewhere) one or two of those add-on vacuum breakers. A new disc for the existing valve and maybe a seat regrind along with the vacuum breaker may be the best answer.
Mike, Furd, not to further hijack the post, but I think the information may be helpful. I have replaced a few of the FF faucets with the quarter turn ones (on the advice if a plumber friend). My biggest problem with the FF's was the washer on the end. They would not use the faucet for a year, then the washer would stick to the seat and pull off the screw head when they did finally operate it. Replacing the washer is no biggie....digging the stuck one out is. So the quarter turns sounded like a good alternative. Now you interject this very viable situation with sediment. Mostly well water up here, with a mix of city/county. Most of the FF's I replace is due to leaving a hose hooked up, or, lately leaving a Y hooked up with the valves closed. Swore they did not leave the hose hooked up all winter. Well, duh! Nice split, always on top, and always only about an inch long. Pretty consistent. Thanks for the information so far.
I finally got the handle from home depot and found out that the square hole in the handle does not fit the stem that I have. Here is how the existing stem looks The distance between curved edges is 3/8 while the distance between straight edges is 5/16 I used a file to make the hole on homedepot handle (mueller) match that of the stem. This worked, to an extent. now the handle is fitted on the stem, but the handle can only rotate the stem some distance. The old handle had a protruding circle that could go inside as the handle turned. The homedepot handle is flat and can not go inside as the stem retreats. Local small hardware shops dont seem to have a replacement handle .. the website of prier does not list any handle that seems to match this description .. Can you guys help me find a replacement handle on the interwebs? Thanks
I'm building a house that is modern in design. I would like to do cable railing on the decks and interior stairway. I'm looking at needing roughly 250' of railing. The least expensive bid I've gotten so far is in the $70. per foot range. Does anyone have an inexpensive source for something like what Ultratec offers? I'm looking to get all the hardware for $25. per foot.
Just the cable cost itself will be astounding. For outside use, you would be better off using stainless, which is really costly. Remember you will have to install the cable to where there is no more than 4 between the cables. They must be kept taut, and tightening 8 cables on a single run the same tautness will be a bear.
I'm assuming that that $70/ft. bid is just for the material. You might find it for a couple dollars less, but $25/ft. is a pipe drream.
No the $70. per foot was installed.
I'd get a couple other bids and verify what they are using for material. At $70/ft., the bidder has to be using really low end stuff. And getting it installed for $25/ft. simply isn't going to happen. You couldn't even do it yourself for that, with the labor cost being zero.
Lefty - you are right and I apologize for not stating my needs more clearly. I am hoping that I can get the materials in bulk for $25/ft. The installation will be a DIY.
kayas, No appology necessary. But I don't think that $25/ft. a realistic price for the material. Mat'l for cable railing works out to closer to $50/ft. The customer usually doesn't realize it going in, but when I bid a deck, I know that the price of the railing is going to be roughly the same as the price for just the deck. A $20K deck -- add about $20k for the railing, depending on what they want to use. Vinyl is the cheapest, wood is next highest, but too much maintenance, metal is mid-range, cable and glass panels are slightly more and composite is above all of that.
Lefty - many thanks for helping clear this up for me. So depending on the materials used the $72/ft bid may be very reasonable. This is the low end and the high end is a bit over $100/ft. FWIW I got a bid - going all powder coated 3/8 steel tube - installed at $55/ft. It isn't exactly the look I'm going after, but will suit this house okay. Again many thanks for you help.
kayas, Cable railing -- $72 is certainly low end. $100 or so may be a bit high, but certainly more in the range I would expect. The system has pricey parts, and installation is pretty labor intensive to get it right. Powder coated steel at $55 is again low end for that system, but it's $8k to $12k less than the cable, and I'm sure that you are looking more at bottom line than the finished product.
You are right about the bottom line. Unfortunately I don't have an unlimited budget. I guess I fall into the owners that have to find places to conserve money where they can. Since the house is being built on a hillside there has been a huge amount of money spent on site prep. I have 100' L x 14' H concrete retaining wall that then steps up the driveway for another 80'. This is a big ticket item. Between that wall and the foundation walls, I'll have nearly 10 tons of rebar used on this project. I had to forgo wood interior windows with metal exteriors for vinyl because there was a $50K difference from the same company. Don't get me wrong - I'm not crying poor. It's just that compromises have to be made to still be able to pay for a finished house.
Yip -- it's all about the budget! Putting the house on a hill adds a lot to the cost. But the hill is what is going to give you the view (or at least the LOOK) that you want. To pay for that, you have to cut $50k on the windows you REALLY want, $10K on the deck you REALLY want, and I'm sure that's just the beginning of the list. I've yet to come across the customer that tells me this is what I want, go do it, and send me the bill. (Sure would nice if I could tho!!) No, they all have the house of their dreams in mind, but once the estimates start coming in, they are forced to make their choices to get the house as close to that as they can that is within their budget.
This is the property and view of my dreams - not quite the house of my dreams. Still, it will be a home that I will love living in even if it isn't exactly what I really want.
One thing to consider about cable-rail type systems: they form ladders for children to climb - a particularly hazardous situation if there is a considerable drop on the far side.
Michael Thomas, I agree about a cable railing system being viewed as a ladder by children (and some of those children might actually have quite a few birthdays behind them!!) I've installed a couple for customers who wanted them for the view, and not obstructing it. But when that is their reason for wanting cable, I suggest going to tempered glass panels. Either one is going to be one of the higher end railings, and the cost will work out about the same regardless of which is used. Somewhat less view obstruction with cable, but glass is safer.
I do cable railings for a living, both complete installs and assists. There is no such thing as a cheap cable syste., however there are ways to save money. Some are... Build your decks with long, straight runs as short runs eat up fittings. That's where the money is. A cable railing has a very specific spacing on the framework. it has to be well anchored on the posts that have tensioning fittings attached and there are also intermediate posts required every so many feet to maintain the spacing. Also be aware that many manufacturerers say to install cable on 3 centers, because at 4 you can get the opening to exceed the 4 many codes require which fails the system. Offset your corner post runs so that you do not have to use turnbuckle fittings. They are very expensive. Use threaded thru terminals at every opportunity for your tensioning fittings, and if possible for both ends. I use CS Johnson products for my installs and will be happy to answer questions about their line or general install or lay-outs.
I have researched and researched, and cannot figure out what kind of adapter I need. My grill has the female attachment for a large cylinder, and my home has a quick connect that comes from the supply line. How do I connect them? Pictures attached. Thanks!
Your grille is set up to use propane. Most likely the connection on the house is natural gas, the two are not immediately interchangeable. In many cases you CAN convert the grille to use natural gas but then it will no longer be usable with propane. Now IF your house is served by propane then you would need to know the pressure at this quick connect and then adapt the grille appropriately. The hoses and regulators are readily available from propane and gas appliance service centers or over the Internet.
Thanks for the reply. Both the grill and house are on propane. How do I figure out the pressure, and what do you mean by adapting the grill appropriately? I have looked everywhere and don't know which part to look for, do you have any idea? Thank you.
The fitting you are showing us fits a propane tank. It's called a P.O.L. fitting. The best way handle it may be to contact your grille for a combination quick connect hose and regulator for your grille. You won't find a propane tank adapter fitting. You'll need to remove that hose and regulator and replace them with a setup for Q/D.
quick disconnect hose for gas grill: compare prices and read reviews - Bing Shopping Look on the side of the disconnect you have now to see what type fitting it is to match it up.
Hello: Happyhudsons Might be a bit late and hopefully you'll return soon. Have you noticed the related products ad to the right? If you did not, rest assured. You're not the only one... nor alone... So many members fail to note the related products. Which provide products based on key words both in the title as well as in the post. Quick Disconnect Hose (third product down) might be what you're looking for...
I have a nearly 7 year old natural gas furnace located in the attic of my 2 story home. It's a builder-grade furnace made by Goodman. Gas supply comes in past the tee with the drip leg and goes to the gas solenoid valve. After the valve there are 4 orifices. The HSI is at the first orifice and the flame sensor is at the fourth one. Situation: * vent motor turns on * HSI heats up * gas flows * there is a blue flame shooting out of the 1st orifice, but the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th have nothing * gas flow shuts off since no flame detected out of 4th orifice * However, sometimes it all works fine without any intervention Question: what do I need to do for this to always work properly? Repair attempt #1: HVAC tech does a cleaning on the burner mostly consisting of a lot of tapping on it trying to knock out a suspected plug. It worked afterwards so the tech left, but the problem returned overnight. Repair attempt #2: the company sends a different tech who removes the burner and orifices, takes them to his van, and blows nitrogen through it all. This doesn't fix anything--the problem remains. The tech thinks it may be the gas valve but does not have a manometer to verify this. His price for a new gas valve is $530. Repair attempt #3: I bought a new gas valve from someone else for $100 and a couple pipe wrenches. I replaced the valve myself. Unfortunately, the problem is still there. I don't know what to do next.
Picture of my Goodman furnace: Closeup of the burner where there is a flame out of the first orifice but not any of the others: You can see: the gas valve that I replaced; the HSI at the outlet of the first burner orifice; and the flame sensor at the outlet of the fourth (last) burner orifice. After the HSI lights up that first gas jet, how is the flame supposed to propagate to the other gas jets (assuming there is gas flowing out of the other orifices)?
No expert...but I just saw this asked/answered in another post... I think it is supposed to pass from one to the other via those wings out at the end of each burner/orifice. Maybe your gas pressure is low? How can they send someone who can't check gas pressure..thats just stupid
Sounds like you have the same problem as did this other poster. http://forum.doityourself.com/gas-oi...-lighting.html
The most common reason for burners to fail to light is dirty burners ---- but a repairman who removed, blew them out and presumably inspected them should have solved that possible problem Low gas pressure from the utility is definitely worth checking. Then you have the replacement gas valve. Gas valves have their own pressure regulator built into them, and it's unlikely that a DIYer has the skill to correctly set the burner input, which is why DIYers shouldn't replace gas valves. Just guessing, but it probably didn't need replacement anyway.
After reading the first post in the thread AND looking at the pictures, I tend to agree the problem is one of gas supply. The one thing that really caught my eye was the flex line. It looks awfully small to supply a 80-100K input furnace. On the other hand, if it has worked well for the past 7 years... You need to call the gas or service company get them to check the gas pressure. Do you have other gas appliances if so, do they work properly?
I will remove the wings and make sure the slot at the end is clean. (Just to be clear, the wings are those V-shaped extensions on the tubes?) I did take a closer look inside the ports this evening and noticed some blown fiberglass insulation trapped in there. I removed that using a solid 14ga wire, but that didn't improve the situation. Anyway, after making sure the wings are clean (thanks for the suggestion), I'll call in the gas company to check the pressure if the problem persists. I have a gas water heater and a gas stove/oven. Both of these appliances work fine. They are all fed from the same supply line--just tee'd off. It's been this way for years. It's only now that we have this issue with the gas furnace. Something else I noticed tonight is that the first time it tries to light, the flame in the first port has a lot of yellow and orange. The second attempt is mostly blue. The third and final attempt is solid blue. Is this useful info for the diagnosis? Keep in mind all four ports usually light up after a few runs through this cycle.
Two repairmen out and nobody has a manometer and the skill or wit to use it. One of my pet peeves. It can be difficult to know if a repairman who shows up on your doorstep is someone you want working on your furnace. My theory is that people should ask the repairman to show them their manometer. If they have no manometer ----send them packing. If they have a manometer and it's nice and shiny and new ----send them packing. They obviously don;t use it, probably because they don't understand use it. If they show you an obviously used manometer and a bunch of odd lengths of rubber hose and barb fittings ---- don't let that guy get away! He's the one you want! '
Originally Posted by Brucifer * However, sometimes it all works fine without any intervention This is the most interesting of anything said. You'd think constant no start if low pressure. I'd try to light #4 burner with a long match lighter as the HSI glowed and #1 burner lit, to see if it simply a crossover problem. And I would do the test repeatedly, it it goes, to rule out coincidence. Then do it again, repeatedly, without the long match test. But this all would be contingent on there being an oriifcie for each burner, in the rail, just in front of the shutters. If there are no orifices, and instead, gas passes through slits in the wings, then it could be low pressure, or plugged wing holes.
Heh, heh! I'd be cautious about Ecman's test. You can wind up with a face full of flame with delayed ignition from three main burner orifices.
Originally Posted by SeattlePioneer Heh, heh! I'd be cautious about Ecman's test. You can wind up with a face full of flame with delayed ignition from three main burner orifices. That is why he has to have the long-match going when the HSI glows, so the match flame beats the gas. If nothing happens right away, as the #1 burner fires off, turn off the long match.
The change in flame color makes me think there is junk of some sort either in the burners, manifold, or gas line, probably manifold or burners.
Originally Posted by ecman51` This is the most interesting of anything said. You'd think constant no start if low pressure. I'd try to light #4 burner with a long match lighter as the HSI glowed and #1 burner lit, to see if it simply a crossover problem. And I would do the test repeatedly, it it goes, to rule out coincidence. Then do it again, repeatedly, without the long match test. But this all would be contingent on there being an oriifcie for each burner, in the rail, just in front of the shutters. If there are no orifices, and instead, gas passes through slits in the wings, then it could be low pressure, or plugged wing holes. Yes, there are 4 orifices threaded into the rail. Each sticks out into one of those 4 long tubes with wings. There are times when the system hasn't run for hours, then the thermostats calls for heat, and it all works fine. Typically, once it gets working (all 4 lit up) it will be able to do that repeatedly for hours as needed to maintain the thermostat setpoint. It seems to be the worst early in the morning. That's most often when we have to turn the system off and on until it runs. Turning it off and on is the intervention I was talking about. The only consistent thing about when it works is that it's inconsistent.
Originally Posted by Grady The change in flame color makes me think there is junk of some sort either in the burners, manifold, or gas line, probably manifold or burners. I'm ok to take all of the piping apart and the orifices can be unscrewed. If there is something in there that blowing nitrogen through it couldn't dislodge, what would be the best way to get in there and clean whatever out? Poke around with a wire? Pound on it with a mallet?
His light is on. He sure has quite a bit to read now. In all my years, I have dealt with similar issues a lot, with gas ranges. And how one burner will go, every time, and another won't. And you'd have to wave your hand at it to get it to go. And invariably it was always one of those small step-up holes, I'll call them, that allow the gas at the top of the burner, to also come out those step-up holes (that progressively got 3-tiers lower... down to the level where the pilot was), to reach the pilot flame. The pressure was there at the source alright - except that gunk was blocking them holes.
Hmmmm. You say the 2nd tech cleaned the orifices and burners out in his van. He blasted them clean. Hmmmm. Did anyone, just to be certain, make sure the pressure switch is not shutting off, because it is always marginal? That be easy to forget about, under circumstances that mimmick flame sensor and low gas pressure problems. I am a real, real stickler for not letting Murphy play games with me. I really mean that too, not just to be funny. Just like how your phone rings everytime you go to use the toilet.
Start with the easy stuff, the burners. Take them out clean 'em yourself paying particular attention to the interior of the wings. Sounds like you've been dealing with the world's largest HVAC company, GTMR, better known by their full name, Get The Money Run.
Originally Posted by Brucifer I'm ok to take all of the piping apart and the orifices can be unscrewed. If there is something in there that blowing nitrogen through it couldn't dislodge, what would be the best way to get in there and clean whatever out? Poke around with a wire? Pound on it with a mallet? Usually I clean burners with eith a regular wire brush or a toothbrush sized wire brush with finer wires. But I'd use a piece of sheet metal or whatever it took to clean out any debris. Knocking debris out by lightly pound on the burner is an old serviceman's tradition, but pounding can be overdone and could bend or damage something. So a measure of caution is recommended. Also, moving the burners around to see if that changes how things light up might be worthwhile to try.
Originally Posted by SeattlePioneer Also, moving the burners around to see if that changes how things light up might be worthwhile to try. Excellent idea! Yes. That worked for me with problem gas stove burners when trying to figure out if ther really was a gas pressure issue from some orifice, some alignment issue, or whatever..
But maybe you can only switch around the 2nd and 3rd burners, since the left burner may not have a wing to the left, and the right burner may not have a wing to the right. This dawned on me just after I left the board to go out on a job.
I had the same problem and just fixed it. Take the burners out. it is important you remeber what order they go. at the end of the burner where the flames are there is aoriface that gets plugged! simply clean all around that oriface. I used a big tie strap and simply clipped it untill it fit. clean all the holes, then take a flat putty knife and scrape the inside of the wings, blow it out with air, replace and it should fire all of them, hope this helps.
Dirty burner orifices could cause that kind of problem. The usual thing to do is to remove the burners then unscrew and remove the orifices. They can be inspected and cleaned easily at that point.
Reporting back now after letting the system run for awhile. The rail and orifices were all fine and clean--they weren't the problem. I had to dig out small bits of the blown fiberglass insulation out of the notch in the end of the wings using a utility knife and compressed air. There wasn't much there, but apparently it doesn't take a whole lot to disrupt the flame propagation across the wings. Thanks to all for clueing me in on where to look for the problem. It's a shame that I wasted money on service techs who didn't think to check there for the problem as well. I probably wasted money on replacing the gas valve as well.
Glad you got it. Too bad techs did not figure that out.
Just wanted to add my experience to this thread. I've owned a janitrol GMP 075 forced air furnace for about 10 years now and I've always had the problem of the burners not lighting the first time. And, to make a long story short, I had to finally take off all three fans and clean them with a wire brush and blow them out really good (paying close attention to the sides of the fans where the flame jumps from one to the next). It looks a little intimidating at first to remove the parts but just take your time...it can be done. I put them all back together and fired the furnace up and adjusted the gas output a bit with a flathead screwdriver and now it fires up first time...everytime! Makes me mad I didn't do it sooner. Luckily though I never called anyone out for a repair...I could see someone taking you to the cleaners on something like this. Like the person above said...do the simple things first.
Tags: furnace, sometimes, only, lights, first, orifice, four, Originally Posted, long match, burner orifices, there orifices, around that, burner orifice
I am having an issue starting my Craftsman 18 hp Briggs engine riding mower. Starter grinds as if battery is dead or low. I checked the battery and it checked good, 12.5 volts Replaced the starter, still same problem Replaced the soloniod, still won't start same problem Jumped start to the start from positive side of the battery same issue checked ground wire, positive wires, soloniod wires insuring they were all tight, still same problem Remove key switch assembly, cleaned with electrical cleaner both the switch terminals and the wire harness connector, not change. Out of ideas, turn the key starter grinds but will not turn over. Any thoughts on what to check next?
Originally Posted by dawgfan2011 I am having an issue starting my Craftsman 18 hp Briggs engine riding mower. Starter grinds as if battery is dead or low. I checked the battery and it checked good, 12.5 volts Replaced the starter, still same problem Replaced the soloniod, still won't start same problem Jumped start to the start from positive side of the battery same issue checked ground wire, positive wires, soloniod wires insuring they were all tight, still same problem Remove key switch assembly, cleaned with electrical cleaner both the switch terminals and the wire harness connector, not change. Out of ideas, turn the key starter grinds but will not turn over. Any thoughts on what to check next? Can you turn engine over with spark plug out? Take plug out to see and to make sure the cylinder is not full of gas. If full of Gas the fuel shut off on bottom of Carburetor is not working or key was left on.
Also, you can't judge a battery's condition just by the volt reading. Try turning the engine by hand. Will it turn? If not, try without the spark plug as mentioned. If it does turn by hand, you might want to load test the battery.
Thanks, I borrowed a new battery from a neighbor and had the same issue has with my battery, I can turn the motor with my hand from the top. Did not remove the spark plug but will try that. Thanks! QUOTE=cheese;1903737]Also, you can't judge a battery's condition just by the volt reading. Try turning the engine by hand. Will it turn? If not, try without the spark plug as mentioned. If it does turn by hand, you might want to load test the battery.[/QUOTE]
Thanks, I can turn the engine over from the top bu hand, however I did not pull the spark plug, I will try that next. Thanks!
Tags: craftsman, riding, mower, starting, same problem, spark plug, still same, still same problem, same issue, Also judge, Also judge battery, Also judge battery condition
Hi Everyone I am busy making an aluminium table (which is very unique in design) and that requires some bending. The tube size is 100mm x 50mm with a 3mm wall thickness. The two tubes are 3 meters in length each and requires two bends in the same direction each. (photo attached) I need help with this one, none of the steel companies wants to help because they dont have the bending equipment because of the size of this tube and are scared of breaking it. My last resort is bending it myself. Can anyone please advise on what would be the best way to get this done if possible. I dont want to give up on this project.
I can't imagine any way that you will be able to bend square tubing like that. Normal way would just be to cut 2 pieces at a 45 degree angle and then weld them at a 90. Won't give you the smooth curve of course. Otherwise you would have to use 4 pieces of flat stock cut and bent to size, then welded in that shape.
Bending tubing of any type requires the proper tooling. The tubing must be supported as much as possible to prevent it from collapsing or wrinkling during bending. It's not the sort of thing you can do with a simple tubing bender or press break. What is the alloy? Has it been heat treated or anodized? Honestly, it would be easier to bend solid bar material. The material may be a bit more expensive but it is much more easily worked since you don't have to worry about crushing the hollow tubing. And, if you can get material that has not been heat treated it bends very easily.
Thank you for the responses. The cutting out, bending and welding sounds like a good idea. No one have suggested that one to me yet. I have heard of people using sand, i might try that but with this size it doesn't sound like it will work, dont know? Steel is too heavy as this will be a mobile table (console to be exact). Again, thank you for the in put, much appreciated.
I'm sure that was done on some type of real expensive machinery and then heat treated after. If you have access to a tig welder with AC you could use an existing leg as a pattern and cut two identical side plates and do a simple bend creating two inner and outer pieces to weld together. I have done old automotive frames something like that but using steel. Good Luck
If the tube is hollow, fill it with sand and cap the ends before you bend it. It will help prevent it from kinking.
Have you figured out anything yet. When you see such a smooth radius it could have been cast. When you bend anything fairly tightly you always wind up with too much material on the inside that has to go somewhere.
Do not believe that you can bend that - you can. However achieving a 90 degree radius will on what appears to be 3/8s will require a 85 degree break press and it will look no where near as nice as the image above. That being said there are several places where you can purchase extruded profiles and accessories such and angles that can be joined to the profiles. Try googling - aluminum profiles and accessories.
Look up a product called Cerrobend. It is a metallic alloy with a very low melting point 200° F. You just melt the alloy, fill the tubing, let it cool, make the bend, then heat the finished product to remove the alloy. It is reusable. Good luck. If you go this route, we would really like to see the result.
You could try filling the tube with water then freezing it. The frozen water inside will keep the tubing from collapsing during the bending process. This a variation on hydro-forming bending process. Your results may vary. I saw a you tube video on doing this with copper pipe..
Tags: bending, aluminium, tubing, need, help, heat treated, been heat, been heat treated, bending process, during bending, from collapsing, like that
Hi, We just moved into a new house with a ton of windows that get a lot of sunlight. My wife is worried about new furniture and hardwoods floors fading, as well as reducing glare (not so much worried about retaining heat). Our windows are Barber Ross - a so-so window manufacturer here in Virginia. I'm trying to get the exact specifications of these windows. They are allegedly Low-E, but not sure what kind of Low-E. They might have argon, they might not. The U value is apparently between .40 and .37. We have an awesome view, so my wife wants to preseve as much of the scenery as possible. She is getting a lot of solar screens, but for some rooms, she thinks it won't work, hence the need for window tinting. So my questions are: 1. If I'm not worried about voiding my window warranty, is tinting windows a good idea? 2. We've been pitched 2 products: 3M Prestige and 3M NightVision. Prestige is pricer, but apparently looks better from the outside and contains no metals, helping with cell phone reception. NightVision is more affordable. Nightvision will cost us about $20/pane and Prestige $30/pane. Does anybody know anything about these products and/or window tinting in general? Is it worth the high cost? Are solar screens a better idea? Thanks.
I once lived in a home that had window film on a large window overlooking the back yard. It was a reflective film and allowed a view of the yard and reduced the amount of light and heat in the room during summer. This was a westerly exposed window. Depending upon how house is oriented, simply closing window treatments on windows when the sun is shining on that side of the house is all that is necessary. Orientation of windows, particularly west and south which get direct sun during the afternoon and early evening require more protection. Solar screens would be effective for these windows. Solar screens are more effective than window film, but they will change the look of the home. Most tend not to want them on the front of their home. Taking into consideration window warranty, manufacturers will not cover thermal window warranties if window film is used. Often window film manufacturers will pick up the remaining warranty on windows. There are different types of window films. One type of film is a window tint that absorbs solar radiation. Another is a reflective film that reflects the sun's rays. It offers greater transparency than the tint. With film, windows tend to build up heat inside the window and sometimes cause the thermal pane to fail. Film can scratch and change color. Special precautions must also be taken when cleaning window film. Many of the auto window film companies apply film on residential windows. Check all warranties before making a decision. Make sure you are dealing with a reputable company that will provide a warranty that at minimum matches that of the original window manufacturer’s. If you select a window film, follow manufacturer's recommended care instructions.
You are correct when you say VOID WARRANTY. If you have that many windows you should be worried about warranty. Window film causes the windows to get hot and sometimes causes a seal failure between the glass. You might want to price some replacement glass for one of your windows before considering film. Average size glass (3'X3') could cost you $200 + labor to replace. Every window company I know of will not warranty windows with film applied.
A U factor of .37 or .4 is not very good(lower is better with U), .35 is considered good. But most Lo-E glass will block much of the UV, better glass blocks 95%+. Argon is more of an insulating agent than UV blocker. If you intall a film it should be on the outside. Installed on the inside, it reflects the heat back into the glass and will likely result in seal failure. And as suggested above, it may void any warranty.
Yeah, I had already checked and it will void the warranty. The warranty is only good for condensation between the panes, though. Since these windows don't have a low U-factor, would you get them done? Or just solar shades? Thanks. My wife really wants the film for aesthetic reasons.
If you break a seal in an IG unit, you get condensation between the panes. That's what the warranty covers, and that's what the films tend to cause. i would probably opt for the solar screens. They work better than the tint and cost considerably less than new glass.
I had all the windows on my house tinted a little over a year ago. The company that did it will tell you what level of film your windows can tolerate without failure. To this day I have had zero problems. My father had his house done as well, probably about 6 years ago....he too has had no problems. I suppose if you were truly concerned about it you could have some storm windows installed and have the film applied to them. But i honestly don't see the film to be as problematic as it may have once been.....just follow the recommendations of a professional installer. And trust me you want a pro to do it otherwise you will likely have air bubbles (ever seen the diy window tint on cars??? yeah that looks hot on a house too )
grigsby, So, how much did you pay for this tinting, and what's it done for you? (I don't care how much you paid, I'm just going to make a point, so don't answer that part of the question.) Window tinting is the least expensive of the 3 options (tinting, sun screens, and window replacement). It's also the one that my local utility company gives the smallest rebate on for energy conservation. Sun screens cost more, and my local utility company gives a larger rebate on them than they do tinting. Upgrading to windows that meet minimum energy standards is the most expensive of the 3 options, but my local utility pays a rebate of 25% of the cost of the windows for their customers who do it. Do you want to guess which of the 3 choices is going to give you the biggest bang for your buck?
where could i find info on Sun screens for the windows.i got some tint to try from lowes the cling type,it was ok but i like the look og screens better.
Your electric company may be able to provide you with dealers of sunscreens in your area. http://www.caec.com/e_advice_detail.aspx?id=221 A door/window dealer may have them.
FYI, Durasol (www.durasol.com) has a great line of interior and exterior solar screens. I have a blackout shade for my TV room... sure makes that 61 DLP look pretty!
Tags: window, tinting, good, idea, window film, worried about, local utility, these windows, between panes, company gives, company that, company that will, condensation between
Overall joint pain can be caused by many conditions or by many different kinds of injuries. The pain can be mild or serve, and it can effect every aspect of a person's life. From bothersome to debilitating, overall joint pain is more than just a pain.
Significance
Pain can make even the simplest tasks and daily movements a chore, or in some cases impossible. Just getting up and out of bed may be difficult, and may start a chain reaction of painful twinges that last all day long.
Conditions
Rheumatoid arthritis, osteoporosis, lupus, bursitis, gout, hepatitis, influenza, Lyme disease, measles, mumps, tendinitis, fevers and Epstein-Barr Syndrome may all cause overall pain in the joints. Treating the cause can bring relief.
Sprains, Strains, Breaks
Sprains, strain, fractures and broken bones can cause overall joint pain. Injuries from repetitive movements such as carpal tunnel may also be a cause.
Fibromyalgia
Fibromyalgia is a misunderstood condition that can be responsible for fatigue, sensitivity to pain, and overall joint pain. The most common symptoms and complaints are constant pain in the joints, tendons and muscles.
RSD
Reflex sympathetic dystrophy is a neurological condition that begins in a certain limb, muscle and joint, and later affects many other body parts and joints. Pain may begin acute or chronic, sometimes lasting decades or a lifetime.
Cancer
Overall joint pain may be caused by cancer, its treatments, or medications used to treat the disease. Sometimes the pain that accompanies cancer is unknown, but it is very real and very painful.
Loose dentures can cause discomfort and self-esteem issues.
Dentures lose support when the jawbone and gum tissue recede from where teeth would have met the gum at a average rate of a quarter of an inch per decade. This can lead to problems with speech, eating and dentures falling out. In turn, this also might lead to embarrassing episodes and anxiety that the dentures will break. There are, however, short-term and long-term fixes for loose dentures.
Problems Caused by Loose Dentures
Loose dentures can cause problems with speech, including difficulty pronouncing words and a whistling noise produced when speaking. Loose dentures also can promote a lack of confidence when eating food. They also can lead to discomfort. For example, sore spots will develop in the mouth when loose dentures rub sensitive tissue. The corners of the mouth also can grow sore because dentures that slip out of place because of a lack of support in the lips will lead to drooling.
Adhesive Powders
One short-term fix is applying an adhesive powder to the dentures. Powdered denture adhesive is easy to apply because it only requires those who wear dentures to clean them as usual and then shake a thin layer of the powder on the inside of the set before putting it back into the mouth. Another advantage of this adhesive is that it will not interfere with denture occlusion, or bite. However, powdered adhesives often are not strong enough to provide a firm, constant fix.
Adhesive Pastes
Paste adhesives might offer the next best solution when a powdered adhesive does not offer enough retention. Pastes are applied similarly to powdered adhesives. However, it is important to avoid applying too much paste to the lower denture, for example, because this can lead to adhesive leaking out from underneath and problems with removal. This type of adhesive also can interfere with denture occlusion.
Cushion Grip Thermoplastic Adhesive
Denture wearers seeking a long-lasting remedy for loose dentures might try the cushion grip thermoplastic denture adhesive alternative. This adhesive can last for up to four days and provide a temporary solution to loose dentures before a dentist can modify the set. Dentures must be brushed carefully and dried when using this adhesive. Pea-sized drops are applied to the inside of the set before putting it back into the mouth. Gradual, light pressure also must be applied to secure the set in place.
Dentists
While most adhesives are easy to obtain, simple to apply and offer a cheaper solution to loose dentures, the only permanent solutions, such as relining or implants can be carried out by a dentist. Have a dentist check that the set is fitting properly and refit them if necessary during regular checkups. Contact a dentist between routine appointments when problems with the fitting continue.
Slat fencing may have posts with decorative finials.
Ornamental privacy fences comprised of slats can have different features allowing light and air through the fence, providing support, decoration and noise control. Which features you choose will depend on what you need your ornamental privacy fence to accomplish. At the very least, a privacy fence should protect your family from prying eyes. Yet, you may also want your privacy fence to be pleasing to look at and to blend in with your landscaping.
Frame
Each section of an ornamental privacy fence is framed to provide support. The frame may be solid 2-by-4s on the top and bottom of a closed slatted fence with no spaces between slats. A frame may take a concave or convex curve shape along the top of the fence, providing a changing shape that is ornamental.
Finial Posts
Finial posts provide ornamentation and support for a privacy fence. The finial top can be shaped like a ball, pyramid, Ionic column top or any other shape. You can special order finial tops from your fence's manufacturer. The shape of the finial can affect the perception of the ornamental privacy fence. An Ionic finial post may make the fence feel more solid, while a pyramid finial may make the fence appear taller.
Decorative Spacers
Place decorative spacers between privacy fence slats at the top and bottom for ornamental purposes, and as a way to keep the fence slats evenly spaced. They can be square to triangular or even round. The different shapes add visual texture and blend in with the landscaping or to accent it. You may like to use oval spacers if you have ornamental shrubs that are trimmed in an oval shape. Square spacers to accentuate the rolling curves of your backyard garden.
Slat Shape
The slats on the ornamental privacy fence may be cut to create small concave curves at the tops or concave curves that run the length on each side of the slats to let air and light in through the fence slats. Another alternative shape for a solid-slat privacy fence is to cut small shapes such as hearts or triangles in each slat along the top of the fence to provide light and air while maintaining more privacy.
Get your iDrive fixed by troubleshooting the issues.
The Wayne-Dalton iDrive is a garage door opener that allows users to open the garage door via a remote-control device. If you are having problems with your Wayne-Dalton iDrive, there are several things that you can do before you call a service technician. Troubleshooting the issues is not very hard. You don't have to be an expert to get your iDrive fixed. You can do it yourself with minimal knowledge of the subject.
Instructions
1. Go to the power outlet where the iDrive is plugged in. Make sure that the unit is actually plugged into the wall outlet.
2. Trace the wiring from the wall outlet to the iDrive. Make sure there are no breaks or frays in the wiring. If you do find breaks or frays, contact a service technician to relace the power cord.
3. Replace the batteries in the remote transmitter inside your car. Pull the back panel off of the remote and change the batteries.
4. Make sure that the door sensors are lined up if the garage door does not close. Use a screwdriver to loosen the screws that hold the sensors on the track. Line the sensors up properly to alleviate this problem.
5. Get a service technician to test the motor control board on your iDrive. The motor control board might have burned out. Your service technician will have specific equipment to test the control board.
6. Reprogram the remote control by pressing the program button on the remote. Wait until the red program light has lit and then press the program button on the transmitter. Wait for the transmitter light to flash 3 times. Press the transmitter button again to set the program.
7. Allow the motor to sit for 20 minutes after use to reset if you are having problems getting the motor to run.
A kitchen sink hose hangs loosely in the cabinet under the sink and can become damaged as items stored in the cabinet are retrieved and replaced. Most stores do not sell a replacement hose separately, but as part of a kit with a new spray head is already attached. There is no need to turn the water off at the sink for this quick job as long as the faucet is turned off.
Instructions
Remove the Old Kitchen Sink Hose
1. Follow the path of the old hose up to the faucet.
2. Unscrew the damaged hose from the faucet, using a basin wrench.
3. Grasp the old sprayer head and pull the hose up through the opening.
Install the New Kitchen Sink Hose
4. Feed the hose of the new spray assembly down through the opening.
5. Wrap pipe thread tap around the outside (male) threads.
6. Attach the hose to the sink faucet, tightening by hand.
7. Tighten the connection at the faucet stem, using a basin wrench.
8. Turn on both the hot and cold water faucets and check for leaks.
9. Press the trigger of the spray head and check for leaks under the sink and from the spray head. If necessary, tighten connections.
A bunion is a painful protrusion that can develop on your big toe joint. Wearing shoes that do not fit properly and arthritis in the feet are two of the most common causes of bunions. Orthotics and comfortable footwear can help prevent bunion pain from interfering with everyday activities, but sometimes these steps are not enough. Surgical removal of bunions, called a bunionectomy, may be performed to relieve a person from severe pain. Recovery may take from several weeks up to six months, depending on the severity of the problem.
Instructions
1. Elevate your foot as much as possible during the first week post-surgery. Elevation (on a stack of pillows, for example) helps keep swelling to a minimum in the early stages of recovery.
2. Apply ice packs to your foot as directed by your doctor. Usually ice packs can be used up to three times each day to keep both pain and swelling under control. Keep the medical dressing on your foot while you ice the affected area.
3. Take pain medication to relieve some of the discomfort you experience after having a bunionectomy. Your doctor may prescribe potent anti-inflammatory drugs, such as ibuprofen or naproxen, or he may suggest over-the-counter strengths of the same medications.
4. Cover your foot with a plastic bag while you bathe for two weeks after your surgery. During this time, your wounds will be closed with stitches that must stay dry.
5. Wear the special boot, shoe or brace that your doctor prescribes for you until you have permission to return to normal footwear. These devices support your foot and give your toes plenty of room to heal, especially when swelling occurs.
6. Use crutches during the first few weeks after your operation when walking is absolutely necessary, to avoid putting pressure on your wounded foot.
7. Schedule a followup appointment with your surgeon for two weeks after your bunion surgery. She will remove your sutures, check your progress and may release you from wearing the surgical boot.
8. Wear roomy sneakers or athletic shoes for six months following your bunionectomy. You foot will take a long time to fully heal, and this process may be hampered if you wear high heels or restrictive shoes.
Colored vinyl slats cover the links and provide privacy.
Chain link fences keep intruders out of your yard and keep pets and children confined. However, chain fences are not known for their beauty and most homeowners prefer to camouflage the fence. Chain link fences do have many advantages over other fences. The maintenance is minimal compared to wood and it stands up to weather and high winds. With a few changes your fence will become an attractive feature to your home.
Instructions
1. Remove a few original vinyl slats and replace with slats to match the house trim to create a colored pattern on the fence. Count six diagonal slats on the fence and remove the first slat and the last slat. Replace these slats with a color to complement the house. Create a diamond shape by weaving inserted slats diagonally in the opposite directions using the same count of slats for placement. Slats come in many various colors at home improvement centers.
2. Plant climbing vines at the base of the fence. Honeysuckle and Heavenly Blue are two of many climbers and can be weaved between the links. Guide the vines as they grow by attaching the vines to the links with cloth or yarn ties. Depending on the climber that you purchase, spacing for planting can be 6 inches to several feet apart. Honeysuckle and Hydrangea attract hummingbirds and butterflies to their flowers. Follow the planting guide for the vine that you purchase.
3. Insert hanging flower pot poles into the ground next to the fence and hang potted flowers from the poles. Flowers baskets can be purchased at garden centers with mature flowers already placed in the baskets.
Textured soles often lose traction from wear and tear over time.
Falls and injuries often occur when people lose traction under foot when walking. Common causes of lost traction are slippery floors and slippery shoe soles. Slippery soles are usually the result of a shoe designer creating a shoe with a flat, un-textured sole design or slippery sole material. They can also occur when a textured sole wears down and flattens with use. Whatever the cause of the slipping, you can usually fix slippery shoe problems at home by resurfacing the soles.
Instructions
1. Attach shoe traction or grip pads that prevent slipping. Wipe away dirt from the bottom of your shoes with a wet cloth or paper towel, and then wipe the soles dry. Remove the paper backing on a pad, align the pad with the area that it's designed to fit, such as the front or heel, and then press it firmly against the surface. Repeat this process with the second sole.
2. Rub coarse sandpaper or a rough brick against the soles of your shoes to rough them up so that they're textured to provide a better grip. If you don't have sandpaper or a brick, put on your shoes and then walk across a rough surface such as gravel or concrete, scuffing your feet as you walk.
3. Etch small and large shapes into the soles with a sharp knife or scissors to create a textured pattern. Match the style of pattern as closely as possible to the type you might see on textured soles in a store, such as zigzags, diamonds or Xs, to create the best grip.
Tips Warnings
If your shoes are still slippery after trying to fix them on your own, hire a cobbler to affix a sole guard to the existing sole or to completely resole or half-sole your shoes with a textured material.
If you use a knife to cut into the soles of your shoes, don't cut too deeply, as you might cut through the shoe if it has a thin sole.
Scuffing or cutting expensive slippery shoes will devalue them. Instead, use grip pads or hire a professional to fix them.
The Dimplex electric fireplace provides a warm atmosphere without the upkeep of a traditional wood fireplace. Dimplex offers a variety of electric fireplaces with realistic flames, heat and artificial smoke. The fireplaces are energy efficient, and some even purify the air. Like any fireplace, they require occasional maintenance. Clean your Dimplex electric fireplace periodically to remove smudges from the glass and dust buildup from inside the fireplace.
Instructions
1. Turn off and unplug the fireplace.
2. Remove the log set from the fireplace and set it aside.
3. Dampen a soft cloth with warm water and wring it out. Wipe the inside of the fireplace thoroughly with the cloth to remove any dirt or dust buildup. Rinse the cloth if necessary while cleaning.
4. Dry the inside of the fireplace with a clean, soft cloth.
5. Spray the inside of the glass with glass cleaner. Wipe the glass with a lint-free cloth using circular motions to remove any dust or smudges. Make sure to dry the glass completely.
6. Place the log set back into the fireplace and plug it in.
Applying texture to a wall can give the whole room a look of depth flat paint does not evoke. One way to create texture is to roll on drywall joint compound with a special paint roller. The nap of the roller creates a uniform design in the joint compound. Using a textured paint roller is similar to using a regular roller, once you have mixed the joint compound.
Instructions
1. Cover the entire surface of the floor with drop cloths. Cover any furniture or other items that you cannot remove from the room.
2. Fill a 5-gallon bucket about half full with joint compound. If the bucket is full it will be too heavy to easily move about the room.
3. Slowly mix water into the joint compound with an electric drill equipped with a mixing drill bit. You can mix by hand, but the consistency of the compound will be much more uniform if you use the drill. Mix in small amounts of water at a time until the consistency is like that of thick wallpaper paste.
4. Submerge the entire roller into the bucket of joint compound. Tap the shaft of the applicator on the rim of the bucket to remove excess compound.
5. Roll the joint compound on the wall starting at a corner and working from top to bottom. Work you way around the room, loading the roller with joint compound every two to three swipes on the wall.
GE ranges are equipped with an automatic door lock that engages during self-cleaning for safety and to ensure that the oven finishes the cleaning cycle without interruption. Inadvertently touching the self-cleaning button could cause your oven door to lock and remain locked until the oven control resets. Attempt all steps to reset the oven controls and repair the latch before calling the repair service.
Instructions
1. Try to open the oven door after the oven completely cools down. Sometimes the lock mechanism remains engaged until the oven cools down. If it remains locked, proceed to the next step.
2. Disconnect the power to your oven for 30 seconds. If you have a free-standing oven, simply pull the oven away from the wall and unplug it. If you own a drop-in or slide-in range, turn off the breaker that powers your oven at the main service panel for 30 seconds.
3. Plug the oven into the wall receptacle or turn the breaker back on. If the oven remains locked, proceed to the next step.
4. Set the self-cleaning mode on the oven to run for 1 to 2 hours. Wait 30 minutes after the oven cleaning completes and try to open the door. If the door opens, the mechanism has reset itself. If the door remains locked, contact GE Consumer Service at 1-800-432-2737.
Tips Warnings
Do not attempt to manually force the oven door open.
Candidal onychomycosis, or fungal infection of the nails, splits nails (especially toenails) and separates them from the skin. Podiatrists offer several modes of treatment, but do-it-yourself treatments are available if you have poor insurance coverage, are concerned about the high cost to solve a minor ailment or fear the side effects of Lamisil, which usually is prescribed to treat this fungus. Anecdotal evidence supports do-it-yourself approaches, and the more such remedies you try, the more likely you are to beat the infection.
Soaking
Vinegar is a recommended solution for soaking the affected area--approximately 15 minutes a day. Anecdotal evidence supports use of both apple cider and white vinegar. After drying the area, you can apply Vicks VapoRub, which also has antifungal qualities.
If you apply Vicks or tea tree oil (another popular antidote) to all of your nails, as a preventive measure, be sure to apply it to the infected nail last--the applicator should not be contaminated before coming into contact with healthy nails.
Apply any antifungal you use to the underside of the nail, not just on the top of the nail, to encase the fungus as well as possible.
Hygiene
Wash socks within a day after wearing them, if the feet are the affected area. The point is to avoid fungus growing in the socks enough to be recalcitrant when washed. Use the hottest settings on the dryer and washer for sock washing.
Biotic Balance
Reset the biotic balance in your system by ingesting one to two servings of yogurt per day. Additionally, drink 8 oz. of buttermilk or kefir each day. These provide good bacteria and change the flora in your body by outcompeting the candida. Look for a yogurt with a L. acidophilus concentration of 100 million colony-forming units (10^8 CFU) per milliliter.
Dedication
Continue with the above for a few weeks after the fungal infection is gone as a precaution, because it comes back easily. Due to the intransigent nature of nail fungus, you should appreciate the dedication needed before you embark on the above do-it-yourself protocol. Slacking off a week or two can allow the fungus to grow back. You must apply the treatment daily to completion, even when it comes to eating yogurt or buttermilk. The period of dedication to the routine can mean two to six months of consistent treatment.
If All Else Fails
See a podiatrist or dermatologist if the above does not elicit improvement within a month or so. Specialists have many standard antifungal remedies to help you.
I am installing a new Intermatic Timer -model T-1975 to replace an existing timer that no longer works. The wiring instructions state- This time switch can be wired to control two circuits as Single Pole Double Throw, or to control one circuit as Single Pole Single Throw. Either Normally Open (NO) or Normally Closed (NC). To wire Time Switch as desired, see wiring diagram above. I'm no good at wiring diagrams. The timer has 4 terminals, instead of the 3 on my previous unit, so I can't just copy the wiring. The timer is used only for a single yard light. The 4 terminals are labelled NO,NC,Common, and Clock. It looks like I run the supply line to the Common and Clock terminals. Then do I run one wire from the light to the clock, and the other to NO OR the NC terminal? Is this a normally open circuit?
Power in black shoud go to your clock neutral in should go to your common. switch leg out to light black should go to NO and the white neutral again should go the the common. Hope this helps Wg
When I wired the unit as per your instructions, and turned power back on- nothing happens? Previous unit ticked like a clock. This unit doesn't tick and when I trip the manual override, the light doesn't come on. Do I assume the unit is defective or ??
Supply (hot, maybe black) goes to CLOCK and supply neutral (maybe white) goes to COM. The light should connect between clock and N.O. Assuming this is the wiring diagram: http://www.intermatic.com/techsup/t1975.pdf
I vote for neither of the above two answers. The diagram shows that the COM is the connection that is switched. So it seems you should attach the supply line hot wire to the COM, and the supply line neutral wire (i.e., grounded wire) to the CLOCK. Then the load hot connects to NO or NC, and the load neutral connects to the CLOCK. Otherwise, you're going to switch the neutral. It sure would have been nice if they would have labeled those two supply wires. It doesn't seem very intuitive to attach the hot wire to the COM terminal.
I'm OK with the supply lines- black to clock and white to COM. And that is the identical wiring diagram on my unit- thanks. But when you say the light should connect between the clock and NO, I'm lost. Neutral (white) from light goes to COM and black goes?? Appreciate your help. Tom
Now I'm getting worried. If I try any of the options suggested and the suggestions are wrong- is there a chance I'll fry my new unit, or worse? Is the worse that can happen is I'll trip the breaker? Thanks Tom
Wait to see if somebody concurs with my opinion.
The thing that is throwing everyone it the fact that the word common is most often associated with neutral or ground. When I posted my reply I was going by memory. After looking at the wiring diagram that HandyRon provided for us, the following wiring is correct. The black of power connects to the common. The white of power connects to the clock. The white of the light connects to the clock. The black of the light connects to the NO. Sorry, my memory didn't serve me well in my first post. John is right that you can not install a switch on a grounded or neutral wire. My opologies Wg
Looking again, I'll agree with John and WG, that the hot (maybe black) should go to COM and both Neutrals (maybe white) to CLOCK and the remaining wire to the light goes to ......... N.O. If there is a severe mix up, the circuit breaker should trip due to a short. John's point is that we shouldn't open and close (switch) the neutral conductor, the hot is what should be switched. Although they both will functionally work, switching the hot is the correct way.
The unit is functioning properly now. It's amazing how what sometimes seems to be a 10 minute job can develop into a real head-scratcher. Thanks for the advice- couldn't have done it without you. Tom
Tags: wiring, intermatic, timer, wiring diagram, supply line, between clock, black goes, black should, clock white, Common Clock, connect between
My wife thinks that paintable/textured wallpaper would look good on our bedroom ceiling. Is there a certain type of paper made especially for ceilings? I would imagine that each piece would need be cut long enough to go from wall to wall for less seams, so it'd be a major challenge getting it up there. There must be an easier way to apply this than the nightmare I envision... Suggestions?
yes, there is paintable textured wallpaper. it looks sort of like the old tin ceiling tiles once hung. there are 2 different types though. the real stuff is called Anaglypta and is papery. it's texture is puffed out on one side and concave on the back side (hope that makes sense) so when you hang it, you *could* actually flatten out the pattern ruin it easily. avoid this kind. the other kind is more like thick vinyl. it's got the relief design on the one side, but the back side is smooth flat. so you can't smash it flat. it's kind of spongy in a way. i recommend this kind. the adhesive you use is key. it's gotta be really good heavy stuff. no pre-pasted wet-the-back easy-to-install situation here. yes, your strips will have to run from one side of the room all the way to the other. unless the pattern would allow you to piece it together. yes, it's difficult to hide the seams because the design is in relief. yes, it's miserable to work overhead. i would think you almost couldn't do it without a helper's extra set of hands. and then, IF you get it hung successfully, you get to PAINT!!! yes, this might be the situation to call in a pro!!! good luck! P.S. from a decorating standpoint, this stuff might actually be too much for a large room like a bedroom. a compromise might be to just use it in the bathroom or an entryway or a powder room or maybe kitchen.
Easier would be to get painted ceiling tiles. These look like the old tin ceilings but are available painted. You can work at your own pace, not having to do an entire strip at a time. You probably won't find them at the local big box. The internet might be your only source. Armstrong is one company that makes them.
Annette; Thank you, because this decorating request was my wifes idea (guess who'd be doing the work), your P.S. from a decorating standpoint, this stuff might actually be too much for a large room like a bedroom. just might save me some back ache when she reads it BobF; The Ceiling tiles you mention sound a whole lot easier than a 15' piece of wet paper overhead. We have some good home decorating stores locally, so sourcing these tiles through one of them should'nt be a problem. Regards
Originally Posted by BobF Easier would be to get painted ceiling tiles. These look like the old tin ceilings but are available painted. You can work at your own pace, not having to do an entire strip at a time. You probably won't find them at the local big box. The internet might be your only source. Armstrong is one company that makes them. There are actually quite a few different types available on the internet that range from plastic to styrofoam to be installed by adhesive and can be done by just one person working alone. HOWEVER, they are VERY VERY expensive for what you are getting. Actual tin was even more expensive. After looking for quite some time the cost of those tiles was so far out there that we opted for the wallpaper which we got on a closout deal at one of the big box stores. We are still in the planning stages for our build so I can't tell you how difficule it is to actually install the wallpaper on the ceiling. Will it be a bear, I already assumed it would be. M.
I have rented a home recently, and I am planning to decorate it. I have the plan to decorate it, but I think I don't have sufficent budget right at the moment to decorate it. I don't have enought experience with decorating the ceiling via the wallpapers, but afterall its an great idea to decorate the home.
Tags: could, challenge, paintable, textured, ceiling, wallpaper, ceiling tiles, that makes, work your, actually much, actually much large, actually much large room
Is there any possible way to remove/reduce roots in the drain out to the sewer? I just found out that it can't be roto-rooted because the house we just bought has an oldfasioned catch in the sewer line rather than a cleanout. Eventually I will have the catch replaced with a cleanout and can do it then, but I've already plopped down $270 in plumber bills recently and (as you 1st time home owners know) money is beyond tight (at least until I can sue my former landlord for the $3000 he owes me, but that's another story and who knows how long it'll take). Does enzyme work on tree roots? Perhaps some sort of solution (muratic acid perhaps) that will disolve/reduce roots without destroying the pipes? I'll try virtually anything, but cost is the BIG key. Even if it'll buy me a couple of months to get some cash together for the cleanout. Thanks.
Ok, so I found a product that contains Dichlobenil that is a foaming root killer that by product description would seem to be the best solution for my root problem (it's not toxic, it fills the pipe to reach all the roots, and it promotes decomposition of the dead root parts). Has anyone used this chemical that can give me some feedback I think it's most common product is RootX, but I've found it under other brand names as well. I just don't want to make a mistake if this stuff is not as good as it seems. Thanks!
Rootx is a product that does it's job. Enyzimes really doesn't work too good on tree roots but will work great on the stuff the tree roots snag. The best solution is a rotor rooter to rid the main of roots and then treatment for not growing back. You don't have this option right now so we will go with plan B. Buy some copper sulphate at any large hardware or plumbing supply store. This chemical will dehydrate the roots and they will decay on their own. Rock salt will do the same thing, but this is used more as an ongoing maintenance program after mechanically removing the roots. With luck and watching what you put down the drain, you may not have a mainline clog that causes plumbing bills coming before you are ready. Have you thought of putting in a cleanout yourself. Not a big deal unless the drain is over 5 feet deep. Any more questions, ask in this thread and you'll get some answers.
so then if you were to pick a product to deal with roots would you pick one like RootX (or another with that Di-whateveritis) or would you use Copper Sulfate? I understand copper sulfate is very effective on what it contacts, but because it is flushed down as a liquid solution it will most likely not reach all of the roots. It also seems to be (from what I read) somewhat hazardous, not overtly so, but with a young child in the house, it's something to consider. Where as products like RootX seem to be less hazardous and supposedly fill the whole pipe since it forms a foam. I'd also follow up with an enzyme to work on the non-root obstructions. As far as replacing the catch myself, it would seem unlikely. It appears to be under the basement floor (concrete) right near the corner of the foundation. That seems like a daunting task, particularly considering my very limited collection of tools. I appreciate any feedback you can give me. Thanks!
I'd use both a rootx product (really copper sulphate based) and an enzyme given your problem sewer and the info on construction isn't making it an easier. Keep all products from kids reach. Don't use rootx or products like it, down the toilet as it will stain the bowl if given a chance. When you place any chemical in the drain, it will not come in contact with the entire root, but what is absorbed by the root will affect the entire root. Another problem you have facing you is once roots infiltrate a drain, it doesn't get better. You will need to have the mainline replaced at some point in the future. Not short term unless something drastic happens, but you need to be aware of this. Good luck with this...
I've dealt with this problem several times. The best solution is RootX foaming Root Killer because it kills them for a period of 12 months unlike mechanical cutting which has roots growing back quickly.
My expierence with roots was because the installig plumbers did not put enough lead in the joints, and roots being roots, found the leaky joints. Since the sewer line was under the cellar floor,thus about 7 or 8 feet under th ground, it was much cheeper to rent a sewer cleaner if the problem got out of hand. As a result I started using Root Destroyer about twice a year and had no problem after that. The product is copper sulfate crystles, and you flush it down the toilet, and some of it kind of lays in the house trap and slowly disolves and eats the roots as the water goes by. Good luck Sid
Tags: root, without, best solution, tree roots, copper sulfate, copper sulphate, down toilet, entire root, enzyme work, Good luck